Dumbfounded

[m_lacom99]

I dont think you need any bioballs to replace the media... Your LR and skimmer should do the job. Bristtle worms will come on there own from the LR. You might want to cut back on feeding a little... Try once a day. Your fish list is pretty big plus tangs and angels can be dirty fish.

Marc.

[mamachipy]

I went out to the tank last night at midnight and was able to see at least 4 worms cruising the sand so there are still some in there. I did see alot of pods swimming around and at least 20+ in the refuguim so there are plenty of them too. I do have a manderin goby so the pods in the tank are kept at bay. I think with time the pod population in the sump will grow rapidly.

[Matt Rogers]

Good thread. Sounds like your sand is fine and I think the others are on to something IMO with reducing feeding and removing the eheim media. To be safe, you may want to do the usual bio-ball rec of removing them a 1/3 at a time over a couple weeks, but since it doesn't sound like you have that much media, an established tank should handle the removal fine.

[coral reefer]

Originally Posted by mamachipy

OK i'll try to make this simple. I've been set up for three years now. Everything was perfect for years. About 6 months ago my phosphtes and nitrates started to rise. In December I removed the canister filter and added a sump/refugium. In the sump I used the media from the canister (Ehfisubstrate, Ehfisubstrate Pro, and Ehfimech) to jump start the refugium sand. In the refugium I have 3" of Kent Biosediment, cheto, and 7 mangroves. The water flows through Seachem carbon and Seachem De-nitrate on the way back to the tank. Test results as of noon today are

Nitrates-40
Phosphates-.25
Nitrite-.1
PH-8.1
Alk-130
Calcium-400+
Iron-0
Amonia-0

There is no sponge or floss in the system, besides the small sponge on a PH.
Is it possible that the filter media, being three years old, is leaching nitrate back into the water? Should it be tossed out? If it needs to go should I replace it of just let the refuge (20 gal only) do the work? I am out of ideas besides constant water changes. I only feed algea once a day and auto feeder feeds dry food twice a day(very small amount). The fish act like they are never fed. It never lasts more that one minute in the water.

Thanks for the input,
MIKE

Well it seems as if you pH is fine. The level is where you want to be. If your pH were high, i would suggest algae growth and usage of Kalkwasser!... The solution to those problems whoud be to add carbon dioxide to you water.
Low pH is mainly due to being below 7.8. Calcification is restricted at that low rate. It is always good to add kalkwasser at night as photosynthesis is no existent, unless you are running lights 24.7 reverse daylight for the refugium. Kalkwasser works best at night with no lights on and be careful as to how much you add as it will strip your pH at the advance of increasing alkalinity and calcium.
Many of the problems we are having is due to the calcium, pH, alkalinity triangle. Using vinegar if your pH is too high will help to lower it. Remember that co2 depresses pH. Kalk has a pH of almost 12. By adding a balanced amount of calcium and alkainity, while administering co2, you will negate the rise of the pH from the Kalk. A magnesium addition when dosing Kalk will also beneficial.high calcium>low alkalinity
low calcium>high alkalinity
Dose kalk if pH is too low!
Dose Kalk and vinegar if pH is to high. By doing this your calcium concentration level will be about 9% higher than plain kalk added by itself!