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02-26-2008, 02:01 PM
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#11 (permalink)
| | Stylophora
Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Quebec City
Posts: 952
| Sorry to hear about the sudden death of chubs, you sounded so happy in your last post about him.
Do you have a ground probe? _________
55gl skimmerless, 80lbs live rock, DIY wavemaker running 3x MJ1200 with hydor deflector.
2 DIY fluidized reactors Carbon & ROWAphos
LIghts- 2x 50/50 atinics T10's , 2x life gro T10's ,
1x20,000K T12, 1x6,000K T10.
Fish-3
Coral-13. |
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02-26-2008, 02:40 PM
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#12 (permalink)
| | Scooter Blennie
Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: South Florida Age: 43
Posts: 1,248
| Quote:
Originally Posted by wastemanagement Sorry to hear about the sudden death of chubs, you sounded so happy in your last post about him.
Do you have a ground probe? |
Thanks for the regards, wastemanagement.
I guess I don't have a ground probe. I don't know what one is. Being an electrician I can say with confidence my abode has a driven ground rod; to which all of my equipment ground is attached, but that's the best I can do for ya.
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90G display tank. Kent Phos Reactor running carbon and ROWAPhos, Coralife 225 Skimmer, Typhoon 5 Stage RO/DI, 20 Gal Sump/Refugium with Chaeto/Caulerpa lit opposite daylight cycle. Coralife 2x150MH, 14K + 2x96W PC Actinics, Ecotech Vortech propeller pump, Hydor Koralia #2. |
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02-26-2008, 03:02 PM
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#13 (permalink)
| | Skunk Shrimp
Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Fremont, CA Age: 32
Posts: 287
| Sorry about your loss sparky.....
Have you tried using eggcrate? it works wonders...I also do not have a top on my tank, but I use egg crate and I tell ya, it has stopped some jumpers....go to Home Depot to the lighting department and look for egg crate style light defuser..they mostly have it in white, if you're lucky they'll have the clear one, but it doesn't really make a difference. Here's mine so you have an idea....
I have covered the edges of my tank...you can actually go further into the middle. A big piece will cost you about 10 or 12 bucks and you can cut it however you want and still have plenty left. |
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02-26-2008, 03:08 PM
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#14 (permalink)
| | Gnarly Old Codfish
Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Silverdale, Washington Age: 59
Posts: 4,778
| Sounds like time for a grounding probe...then a "Chubster II"
Let us know when he shows up in tank so we can all celebrate. _________ AG "125," AquaC EV 180, 30 gal sump, "SCWD", 80 lbs LR, CoralSeaLife "Moonlite" Hood, PFO 250W HQI Mini-Pendant (SPS HQI 14000k bulb)
12 Gallon NanoCube - 24w stock PC 50/50 light "...nothing good ever happens fast in a reef tank, only bad things happen fast..."
- MIKE PALLETTA - (2008 Reef log) ("OmarD"/"Scott") |
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02-26-2008, 03:11 PM
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#15 (permalink)
| | Scooter Blennie
Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: South Florida Age: 43
Posts: 1,248
| Quote:
Originally Posted by omard . .. Sounds like time for a grounding probe... |
So what is a ground probe?  |
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02-26-2008, 03:14 PM
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#16 (permalink)
| | Scooter Blennie
Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: South Florida Age: 43
Posts: 1,248
| Quote:
Originally Posted by clownfish Sorry about your loss sparky.....
Have you tried using eggcrate? it works wonders...I also do not have a top on my tank, but I use egg crate and I tell ya, it has stopped some jumpers....go to Home Depot to the lighting department and look for egg crate style light defuser..they mostly have it in white, if you're lucky they'll have the clear one, but it doesn't really make a difference. Here's mine so you have an idea....
I have covered the edges of my tank...you can actually go further into the middle. A big piece will cost you about 10 or 12 bucks and you can cut it however you want and still have plenty left. | Well I never really considered using eggcrate. Maybe I should. I absolutely LOVE firefish. Maybe I should make the sacrafice and top the tank with some light diffuser. I really like simple. Is it just me or is eggcrate beyond simple? I'm not talking about the DIY aspect--I mean the "new top" on the tank.
As an aside, years ago I had a Niger Trigger jump ship. Boy I was steamed. He was probably 6 years old. I hear Matt refers to carpet surfers as "potato chips." When I found my trigger he was more like a mini concrete slab. Probably could have rehydrated him and got a Filet-O-Fish off one of his shoulders. (is that wrong? LOL) |
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02-26-2008, 03:14 PM
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#17 (permalink)
| | Giant Squid
Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Los Angeles, California Age: 21
Posts: 3,447
| That too bad...I just went home to find about 10 snail jerky pieces on the carpet...it was pretty scary. _________ Tank Specs:
55 Gallon Mixed Reef
48" Tek Light: 4-54W T5 HO Fluorescents
Bulbs:
1 x 54w Fiji Purple T5 HO Fluorescent
1 x 54w Super Actinic Blue T5 HO Flourescent
1 x 54w 14000K AquaBlue 75/25 T5 HO Fluorescent
1 x 54w 10000k AquaSun T5 HO Fluorescent
Hard Stuff:
100+ lb. Fiji Live Rock
65+ lb. Live sand |
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02-26-2008, 03:26 PM
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#18 (permalink)
| | Scooter Blennie
Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: South Florida Age: 43
Posts: 1,248
| Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce That too bad...I just went home to find about 10 snail jerky pieces on the carpet...it was pretty scary. |
Wow. I never thought snails had the stones for carpet surfing!
BTW, I looked up grounding probe. I have no voltage in my tank thanks to my Vortech, and I don't want to make waves here (is that a pun?) but I'm an electrician and the whole subject of grounding/bonding is somewhat of a special interest to me.
This "stray voltage" I'm afraid is a sales ploy. Most know the basic concept of grounding. It connects all electrical potential, or voltage, to a grounding rod, or electrode, outside the house. Bonding refers to "making all metallic components" of all electrical devices attached to that grounding electrode/rod.
If you use a powerhead, or any other motor driven or electrical device submerged in your tank water; all metallic components, by UL standards, are attached to the ground wire by design. Additionally, the motors in powerheads are epoxy sealed, so there's really no metal/saltwater interface.
In other words, even if there were "stray voltage" in a tank, all functional electrical devices would safely transmit that transient voltage to the best ground probe--the one outside your house driven 8 feet into the ground.
Last edited by ReefSparky; 02-26-2008 at 03:44 PM.
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02-26-2008, 03:28 PM
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#19 (permalink)
| | Astrea Snail
Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Seattle
Posts: 56
Karma: 134
 
| Bummer, sorry for your loss. I agree that the egg crate takes away some of the "simplicity" of the tank, but if it does a good job of containing jumpers, that might be a good way to go. |
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02-26-2008, 03:30 PM
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#20 (permalink)
| | Gnarly Old Codfish
Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Silverdale, Washington Age: 59
Posts: 4,778
| Quote:
Originally Posted by ReefSparky So what is a ground probe?   |
Different types.
(If you order from DFS, make sure you get a DFS coupon code and save yourself some $$)
Here is one from Drs. Foster and Smith
Ultra-Ground Titanium Probe
* Safe and easy-to-use titanium aquarium grounding probe
* Helps eliminate fish health problems associated with stray voltage
* Non-corrosive solid titanium probe ideal for saltwater applications
Pumps, powerheads, chillers, and other aquarium electrical devices may emit stray voltage resulting in fish health problems like lateral line disease, fin erosion, and gill deterioration. Just place titanium grounding probe in your aquarium or sump and hook it up to a grounded outlet. Includes 9" titanium probe, suction cup, 10 ft ground wire, and attachment eyelet.
Features:
Non-corrosive solid titanium rod
Insulated transition joint
10 foot grounded lead More Info - DFS
Ultra-Ground Titanium Probe
Marine Hole in the Head Disease
Veterinary & Aquatic Services Department, Drs. Foster & Smith, Inc.
Marine hole in the head disease is a common disease in tangs and angelfish. This disease is often referred to as Head and Lateral Line Erosion (HLLE). HLLE has several contributing factors, and if caught early, can usually be successfully treated.
Causes
There are several suspected contributors to the development of this disease, but one of the most commonly described is that of a vitamin deficiency, particularly Vitamin C. Chronic stress has also been suggested as contributing to the formation of the disease, as has stray voltage within the tank. Some forms of activated carbon have been thought to cause mineral imbalance and increase the incidence of the disease.
Signs
The signs of the marine form of this disease are similar to the freshwater form and include ulcers and erosions in the skin primarily located along the lateral line and head area. These lesions may start as pinpoint holes, but then grow in size. Secondary bacterial infections may develop.
Treatment
Treatment of marine "hole in the head" disease involves addressing all of the potential causes of the disease. Providing a vitamin supplement containing Vitamin C or providing a constant supply of fresh plants in the form of edible algae or seaweed strips is important. Make sure the diet is varied and meets the specific needs of the fish you are feeding.
Check your aquarium for stray voltage. A hand-held volt meter can be used to measure voltage and if any voltage is present, properly ground your aquarium. Some recent reports have indicated that this may be a more common problem than originally expected.
Maintaining excellent water quality and preventing fluctuations in temperature will also help prevent stress, which will in turn help keep the immune system strong and functioning at the best possible level. Stress from poor water quality, overcrowding, aggression, or poor nutrition will all suppress the immune system making the fish more susceptible to all diseases or infections. |
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