Philly Here! New 75Gallon Setup - Help?

ItalianNJ · 02-09-2006, 07:22 AM

Hi all!
Michael from South Jersey (Philly) here!

I just set up a new aquarium about a 2 weeks ago. Long ago, I tried a 45 gallon corner setup when I was living up in North Jersey, and since had to move, and sold all of my gear. Now that I am well established and have more space, I purchased a 75G setup. With that I also purchased about 80 lbs of live rock (one of them is a larger base rock in the mix), Live Sand, sump with bioballs, 2 powerheads, Odyssea 48" light with moonlights. Protein Skimmer.
I plan to make this a reef tank...

Here are some of my questions/problems if anyone can help:

1. My water levels are perfect right now when I tested for ammonia and nitrites last night, and all were 0, the PH was between 8.2-8.4 (too high?)
Since they are perfect, when would be okay to introduce some livestock? I would like to start with some cleaners because the live rock is developing algae, I am thinking because I have been leaving the light on too long (10hrs a day on a timer.. correct?) I DID use tap water with conditioner which the store told me was fine. I also added 2 blue damsels after a week, and they are doing just fine.

(LPS told me I could). I also will be looking at something else to filter my water (economic) before a water change.

2. I purchased an Odyssea P75 Skimmer (off ebay) and I think its a piece of junk. I cant get it to stabilize, and it came with no instructions. It either overflows, or doesnt flow enough to the top, I have it placed right in my sump. It also created a lot of little bubbles pumped into the tank even with the foam on the return. Any ideas? Should I trash this one and go for something else?

3. I also notice from reading that the live rock takes care of the filtration, and most people just use their sump for other things and remove the bio-balls. I have live rock, but does it actually hurt to also have the bioballs? I would rather just leave the wet/dry alone... am I okay doing that?

I seem to have everything I need, is there anything I am missing?

Any help would be awesome.

Michael

Diver_1298 · 02-09-2006, 07:46 AM

Hello Michael,
Welcome to 3Reef!!
I will try to be short and to the point. Others will not

1. If you truly want a reef tank??? Do not use tap water again unless the tds are below 75 coming out of your tap. I don't think they are

Buy a GOOD RO/DI filter. You can get a GOOD one from ebay for about $115 If not then you are destined for algae problems. As far as the livestock..Shrimp, snails and hermits are ok for now. Wait at least 2-3 months for corals, or any other fish.
2. It is probably a poj. There are great skimmers out there but they cost. It is hard to find a great skimmer that is cheap. I am sure someone with mucho skimmer experience can tell you about a great skimmer at a good price, I can't.
3. As long as you faithfully clean the bioballs and do not let them get to the point where they release nutrients back into the system. You will be ok.
Long term if you really want to go reef, try a sump filled with macro algae and live rock.

The lighting that you purchased, Was it the 2-65watt pc light? If so there will not be many corals that you can keep. It just isn't enough light for any light demanding corals.

My 2 ounces of aquarium water
Have fun, Enjoy.

Jim

ItalianNJ · 02-09-2006, 07:56 AM

Hi! Thanks for your suggestions!! Yes its the 2x65watt plus the moonlights which are basically useless. I was told this light would be sufficient, guess not, but hey I am new. I am trying to do all my reading to do this the right way.
Any suggestions on lighting without killing my wallet? I know its expensive, but I really would like to do this right. Also, this light that I have generates a lot of heat. I would like to minimize that as well since I have a nice wooden hood on that, (with lots of ventiliation inthe back) but would like to keep it since it matches the rest of my furniture nicely.

ItalianNJ · 02-09-2006, 08:08 AM

Also - What is the deal on RO filters? would I need a plumber to connect this?
Also, can I fill 5 gallon buckets with lids and premake my saltwater for water changes and keep a few in the garage? or would they go stag??

Forgive me if these are stupid questions.

Michaelr5 · 02-09-2006, 08:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ItalianNJ

Also - What is the deal on RO filters? would I need a plumber to connect this?
Also, can I fill 5 gallon buckets with lids and premake my saltwater for water changes and keep a few in the garage? or would they go stag??

Forgive me if these are stupid questions.

Welcome to 3 Reef!! There are no stupid questions!

RO/DI (Reverse Osmosis/DeIonized) water has had the impurities, chemicals and and organic and non-organic solids removed. The organic solids are what encourages diatom (Brown algae) growth. If you are somewhat handy, you can install a RO/DI yourself. Typically all that is needed is a tap into a cold water line and the drain. Tap water goes into the filter, waste water with all the junk goes down the drain and the purified water comes out the third line into whatever you want to store your water.

Yes you can, and usually should premix your water chages. That gives the PH & SG time to stabilize and be adjusted to match your tank water. It will not go stagnant if a tight lid is on it, but you might want to aerate, and will want to heat it to temp before using it.

BTW what part of South Jersey? I lived in Bordentown for 3 years and my wife is from Morristown PA. I also have close friends in Bridgeton.

Welcome again, Mike

ItalianNJ · 02-09-2006, 09:00 AM

Hi! I live in Collingswood, right outside of Philadelphia.

So would a suggestion be to hook this unit up in the laundry room and drain into the utility sink?
Is the connection one of those quick connects like the ones for refrigerator ice makers? if thats the case, its easy for me, unless there is a portable one, because my utility sink in the basement has a hose hookup.

What about those "TAP WATER FILTERS" that they sell for about 60 dollars in the fish stores that quick connect to the kitchen sink somehow? No good? or at least 1/2 good if I dont want to invest in all of that?

Michaelr5 · 02-09-2006, 09:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ItalianNJ

Hi! I live in Collingswood, right outside of Philadelphia.

So would a suggestion be to hook this unit up in the laundry room and drain into the utility sink?
Is the connection one of those quick connects like the ones for refrigerator ice makers? if thats the case, its easy for me, unless there is a portable one, because my utility sink in the basement has a hose hookup.

What about those "TAP WATER FILTERS" that they sell for about 60 dollars in the fish stores that quick connect to the kitchen sink somehow? No good? or at least 1/2 good if I dont want to invest in all of that?

1. Most of the RO/DI units use 1/4" poly tubing, the same as an icemaker. And yes, the tap is the same type. Going from a Hose Bib in the laundry room, check MarineDepot, they also have faucet adapters that you can put directly on the faucet.

The "tap water filter" you can get at the LFS is a Dionizer only. I does not to the RO portion. And all you have to do is run through 2 filter replacements at $25.00 ea. and you will have paid for a reasonable RO/DI unit from Ebay.

ItalianNJ · 02-09-2006, 09:14 AM

Thanks so much! Perhaps this is the way to go!
Now onto the lighting and Skimmer!

ALSO! I was wrong, the lighting is 4x65!!! Not 2x65 - Does that help??? Its the Odyssea lighting.. Will that do???

Anyone know of the brand name I should be looking for for $115 on Ebay? I cant get into ebay here at work, but would like to look into this tonight.

ItalianNJ · 02-09-2006, 10:17 AM

Last question as well, as I am very excited, and my roomie is excited to see Clowns in the tank, since this tank was started on Feb 1st, when would be a good date that I can introduce some clowns?

Michaelr5 · 02-09-2006, 11:40 AM

April 1st and I'm not fooling!

Seriously, you want to make sure your tank has cycled. Do you have at least a basic water test kit? Ammonia, PH, Nitrate, Nitrite are the bare minimum. And a good Hydrometer or Refractometer. Test frequently and you will see your ammonia go up and up. Then the Nitrite will start to rise as well. After that the Nitrate will start up. Next the Ammonia will start to go back down to 0, followed by the nitrite. Then the Nitrate will go back to 0 as well. This can take 4 to 6 weeks. Others have different opinions and I am sure they will help out here as well. Do a search on 'cycling' and you will find dozens (hundreds?) of threads that will give you ideas about what we all go through to start a new tank.

Mike