Hello All - Warning...Questions too!

Discussion in 'Say Hello!' started by imagasboy, Jun 19, 2008.

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  1. imagasboy

    imagasboy Plankton

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2008
    Messages:
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    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    Glad to be part of what looks like a great site. My condolences to Luna and his wife in this difficult time.

    Sorry to jump right into the questions, but I'm trying to get "up to speed" on this as much as possible and have probably been reading TOO much!

    Having failed years back at a FO SW tank, I am back for more (hopefully enjoyment) this time with a FOWLR setup (don't plan on going to corals). I had a few questions that came up as I was reading this site that I was hoping to have answered.

    I am currently running a 29g (small, I know :-/ but in an apartment) which I added ~25lbs of live rock to yesterday, 6/18. The LFS said it would be ready in 3 days since it had been in his LR tank for quite somet time, though I don't believe him and plan on being as patient as need be in letting it cure. Before I added LR all readings were 0 with a pH of 8.2. Temperature ~80 with SG 1.024/25 using Red Sea Salt mix. Mixed with tap water treated with AquaSafe conditioner and ran for 5 days before adding LR (ran as freshwater through system for 2 weeks prior to adding salt).

    6/18 LR in for ~3 hours
    pH: 8.0/8.2 (hard to tell with API test kit)
    Ammonia: 0.0
    Nitrites: 0.25
    Nitrates: 5.0

    6/19
    pH: 8.0/8.2 (hard to tell with API test kit)
    Ammonia: 0-0.25 (hard to tell, but low)
    Nitrites: 1.0
    Nitrates: ~20

    Personally I expected a much more significant ammonia spike, and didn't expect to see the nitrites and nitrates this quickly. Protein skimmer has been skimming pretty good since I added LR.

    Couple of questions:
    1. Is the tank cycling correctly? If the ammonia drops to 0 will I have to add any new ammonia source (dead cocktail shrimp?) to keep the bacteria alive, or should I add this now? Will Nitrates ever drop to 0 with a LR setup?
    2. Thoughts on pH? I expected this to be at least 8.2 with the Red Sea Salt, but I'm concerned its a bit low.
    3. How much light should I be giving the LR during cycling. I just have a 20W 50/50 bulb.
    4. When should I start to feed the live rock, if at all?
    5. For water changes & top off's, is declorinated/conditioned tap water ok for FOWLR or should I go with de-ionized from the grocery store?
    6. I'm adding 2-part calcium additive, as well as Kent strontium and iodide (all in half-dosage) since its LR only. Sound ok?

    Assuming cycling is taking shape as normal, I plan on doing a 20% water change once complete and adding a "cleaner crew" to get started, followed by a couple of fish a week or two later as long as levels stay at 0.

    Appreciate the help, and sorry to barage with questions during my 1st post. Thanks in advance for your advice!
     
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  3. baugherb

    baugherb Giant Squid

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2007
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    5,205
    Location:
    southington, ohio
    Welcome to 3Reef>>>> It sounds like your cycling fine.. I wouldn't worry about the light much at all... Your tank is huge.. Mines on 5.5 gallon.... LOL.....
     
  4. nunch

    nunch Aiptasia Anemone

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Weston, Florida
    1. first your cycling, so kill the skimmer immediately
    2. PH looks fine, but check for Alk/Dkh
    3. don't need much at all, a few hrs if any.
    4. no
    5. go w/ Ro at the grocery store just look at the fine print and it will say "purified by reverse osmosis"
    6. don't know about that, i'd prolly wait but, you don't need calcium or strontium w/ a FOWLR set up
     
  5. lunatik_69

    lunatik_69 Giant Squid

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Miami, FL
    Welcome to 3reef and thank you for your kind words.
    1. " cycling " correctly depends on the set up. It could take 4 weeks or 12 weeks. Just keep on testing weekly and writing it down.

    2. Ph is the last thing you should worry about now, finish with cycle first. Dont worry about ph, mine never goes any higher than 8.0.

    3. I wouldnt put on the lights while cycling b/c you'll find yourself with a algae war in the long run. No lights

    4. No need to "feed" LR. I dont even know what that means?

    5. Tap water is a no-no IMO. If you dont have a R/O unit, try buying the R/O water from the LFS. Tap water will only feed the algae problem.

    6. You shouldnt be adding anything while cycling or for a FO tank.

    Dont do any WC, additives, skimmer or lights.What you can do is buy ONE damsel to help with your cycle. Luna
     
  6. suckafish

    suckafish Montipora Capricornis

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2008
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    Location:
    monterey...cali
    welcome to the reef world, a world of fun, pain, and alot of waiting.
    everything sounds good but a couple of things
    cycling is going well, just let it do its thing [ you dont need the skimmer running].
    live rock doesnt get any food, its the bacteria that is alive not the rock.
    dont run your lights for more then a couple of hours till you finish the cycle, dont need to feed the algea anymore then it already has, and dont worry about ur ph right now.
    most important thing that i say was the stop using tap water. only use ro water [ reverse osmisis water] you can use ro/di but the ro is the important part.
    and you dont need to add any supplments there is nothing to feed but algea. sorry to say there is no good way to "speed it up", the best is to wait.
     
  7. imagasboy

    imagasboy Plankton

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2008
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    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    Thanks for the quick responses, I will start using R/O water when I do my first water change after cycling. I've cut out my skimmer and will keep monitoring the water quality. Not too interested in introducing a damsel cause I know how much a pain they can be later, any other options?

    If not I guess I will just wait until tank levels drop to 0 and add a cleaner crew. Any recommendations for a crushed coral/arogonite mix that is about 1" deep?
     
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  9. aquaboy

    aquaboy Panda Puffer

    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2007
    Messages:
    2,112
    Location:
    Tatamy, PA
    1. It is cycling if you are getting a nitrate reading. But with the nitrite and Ammonia being elevated, it is still underway. If it drops to zero, it is cycled.
    2. PH can change as fast as a Fashion Model can change clothes (only metaphor i could think of :p) What i would test though, is KH, or Alkalinity. If your KH is stable and at the proper levels, your PH will stay steady. Its not the level of PH that hurts.helps fish, but rather how much and fast it changes. You could run a SW tank with a PH of 7, but then algae would be more abundant than fish.
    3. Just run it, normally, you should run just your actinics (420-460 nm lights that emit a blue light that causes corals and certain algae to flouresce. Running the light wont hurt, and may help keep any photosynthesizing organisms alive. (IE Live Rock Hitchhikers)
    4. Most creatures that come on LR are photosythetic or feed off of detritus or nutrients on your water column. So, your fish turds and lights will feed them :p.
    5. De-ionized would be preferable, but may become costly over time. Dechlorinated would work, but contaminants such as copper could kill invertabrae that make up the backbone of your cleaner crew. And nitrates may be in your water and could make water changes seemingly pointless. Phosphates and silicates may feed undesired algal growth, So investing in your own Reverse Osmosis and De-Ionizing System. Usually about 100-200 dollars.
    6. I would stop dosing Iodide/iodine until you can test for the levels of it in your aquarium . Iodine/iodide can feul aggressive algae growth and can harm some creatures if the levels are too high.
     
  10. aquaboy

    aquaboy Panda Puffer

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    I meant to post earlier, but you posted a double thread and the admin deleted the one is was posting on as i was posting so it said please wait for about 2 hours :D