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Old 03-07-2007, 10:57 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default nano with MH? watts?

I have been wanting to do a 37 gallon reeftank. 37 gallon because I already have a stand for that footprint 24x18x21 But it is going to be a while before I can get the 37 gallon tank. I can't wait to start building something, overflow, sump/fuge So I have been thinking again about setting up a 20 gallon long first, with a 10 gallon sump/fuge and auto top off. As I already have these tanks. This should hold me over untill I can get the 37 gallon tank. So now I am back where I started. I asked awhile back about lighting for this tank, but wanted to start fresh with a new thread.
So I thought since the T5's are getting good reviews and also that a 20L is a shallow tank, I thought I will go with them. However I really like the way halides look in the tank! I would rather have halide when it comes down to it. Now since the tank and sump are small, I worry about heat... How many feel that this setup will be ok with a halide? And which wattage being most acceptable?
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Old 03-08-2007, 01:18 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Well...with halides heat is almost always a problem. With a smaller tank, its even more present. As you might know, I am a bit bias towards lighting *cough T-5HO!!!!!! Cough*. I mean, for me with a 55 gal, the T-5s do make a the temp go up...Im pretty sure i would be in trouble with a metal halide system and no chiller.


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48" Tek Light: 4-54W T5 HO Fluorescents
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Old 03-08-2007, 03:21 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Well we just broke down a 37 gallon flat back Hex that had 2. 175 M.H and a Mag 9.5 in the sump plus a RIO 1700 and 3 Maxi /J 1200 inside the tank and 96 w P/C for actanics and a single 4 inch 220CFM fan in a totally enclosed hood and never a a heat issue . Its doable The room averaged low 70's for ambient temps and no chiller


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Old 03-08-2007, 07:53 AM   #4 (permalink)
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It can be done plus remember you have the flexibility to raise or lower the light above your tank! If their is still a heat problem just use a fan to blow across the top of your tank. Evaporational cooling works wonders and at a fraction of the cost as a chiller! Plus by increasing your water movement, this will help also with the temperature and making sure that your water column is optimal in terms if Dissolved Oxygen to reduce chances of suffocation by corals, inverts and fish alike!
I say do it, especially if that is what you ultimately want to do!


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125gal.w/Mag9.5 return(dual megaflow)>Mag7 pump Aqua Cev180skimmer.Wave2k Hamilton Reefstar(2)250watthqi(mh)pend.a Yellow, Naso Tang Red Lip Blenny Percula Clown Demoiselles Niger Trigger F. Wrasses Ceriantharia Orn.Shrimp and Stars Hermits Queen Conch asst. snails> Stars Zoos shrooms Montipora Brains Gorgonians Favia Turbinaria(large+small polyp) Acropora Xenia Tridacna (CroceaMaximaSquamosa) Leathers <35+75gal.reef tank as well>


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Old 03-08-2007, 12:01 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I guess i forgot to mention that the wall my tank is up against gets alot of sun...so its pretty warm eh he...My AC is not very good either.
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Old 03-08-2007, 07:41 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks for all the information! This tank won't be getting any sun, but the room is some times around 77-80 during summer. I understand I will likely need a fan some of the time. Now if I use a metal halide, what wattage are we talking here for a "12 in. tall" tank?

{EDIT} I have been looking at 150W HQI pendants. How do you guys feel about running something like this with a 14000k bulb with out actinics. Will it be blue enough?

Come on guys!

Last edited by pshootr; 03-09-2007 at 11:00 PM. Reason: Lets go!!!
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Old 03-11-2007, 09:07 AM   #7 (permalink)
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teehee... monkey giggles...

im doing the same thing im going to be putting a 250 on a 37 and im going to fit two fans to control the heat issue...


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15 gallon aga
20 pounds lr
35 pounds ls
Current Power quad 96 watt retrofit
ZooMed Powersweep 214
Aquaclear 70 moded into refugium

two trumpet corals (1 light blue, 1 lime green)
star pollyps (pink base with yellow tips, and regular green)
various mushrooms (over 5 types)
metalic green frogspawn
sea mat (aka button polyps)

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1 cherub angel (2 1/2 years old)
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Old 03-11-2007, 01:17 PM   #8 (permalink)
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monkey, you useing the 24 x 18 x 21 "37gl" ? If so what brand are you concidering? The only one I have seen is an Oceanic. Am am hopeing to find a cheaper one! When or if I do the 37. Now I am trying to figure out the best MH wattage for a 20 long. Looking at some 20 longs that have 150 watts, and some others that have 250 watts, I have also seen a 20 long with 2x 175 watts. single light setups have a little less light at each end. I just don't know yet which way I would go. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Old 11-29-2007, 10:36 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I got my MH aquarium light from a company called "Inside Sun". They make mostly 'grow' lights, but MH all release generally the same spectrum of light... right? I chose the 10K one, but should probably upgrade the bulb, it came with one called a "Plusrite".
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Old 11-30-2007, 07:12 PM   #10 (permalink)
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on a 20 gal? i would use one 150 watter if you want to do LPS or Softie, a 250 watter for SPS. you can move the Halide higher and the light will dipsurse more, and since its a shallow tank not much will be lost. if the edges of the 20gal arent lit just dont put corals there. If you are going to upgrade to bigger tank i would get a 250watt pendent of some kind.
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