Switching from fluorescent lighting to MH...Please help

Tupps11 · 01-18-2007, 09:28 AM

Thinking of getting these...

Arcadia - Overtank Luminaire

What is the difference between T5 and T8? My tank is 121cm so i have to go for the 120cm model. It comes in two options (2xT

or (4xT5).

I have a 65 gallon with 5 live rock with mushrooms. I was thinking of getting an anemone for my clown, but not before getting proper lighting.

Any help is appreciated

Edit: Just talked with my lfs. He says the one with the supports is the 4xT5 model. Hanging the 2xT8 is not an option, so i have to go with the 4xT5. Is that ok for corals and anemones?

Diver_1298 · 01-18-2007, 09:43 AM

If it is the T5 HO (high output) model, it will provide you with enough light for a wide variety of corals and some anemones.

coral reefer · 01-18-2007, 09:50 AM

You have to make sure your water parameters are sufficent as well! Lighting is only part of the equasion! You should be ok with the t5's for keeping alot of coral and anemone's. Proper placement will also enable you to have a greater selection of coral as well.
You also have to look at things such as GELBSTOFF(responsible for the yellowing of your wateer due to plankton and algae decomposing in your tank), and refractory compounds like organic acids that will refract the light of these particles instead of the light rays hitting your coral.

Tupps11 · 01-18-2007, 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diver_1298

If it is the T5 HO (high output) model, it will provide you with enough light for a wide variety of corals and some anemones.

Yah, its the T5 HO

Bruce · 01-18-2007, 12:33 PM

Did I mention I love T-5HO lighting?

Tupps11 · 01-18-2007, 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coral reefer

You have to make sure your water parameters are sufficent as well! Lighting is only part of the equasion! You should be ok with the t5's for keeping alot of coral and anemone's. Proper placement will also enable you to have a greater selection of coral as well.
You also have to look at things such as GELBSTOFF(responsible for the yellowing of your wateer due to plankton and algae decomposing in your tank), and refractory compounds like organic acids that will refract the light of these particles instead of the light rays hitting your coral.

Thanks guys. I will make sure the water quality remains optimal.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bruce

Did I mention I love T-5HO lighting?

Is there any particular reason you prefer them over MH? Also, do they radiate less heat than MH? Im having a problem keeping my temp down. Through process of elimination, ive determined that the problem is most likely a combination of my room temp and the fluorescent lighting i am currently running.

Tupps11 · 01-18-2007, 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diver_1298

and some anemones.

Wait a sec...i just re-read that. How come some? What type of anemones will i not be able to put? I wanna nice friend for my nemo

Diver_1298 · 01-18-2007, 04:39 PM

Anemone care is considered moderate to high depending upon the type. There are none labeled as easy

except for the pest anemones

Their lighting requirements are labeled from moderate to high depending on the type. A bubble tip is probably your best bet. I would not place an anemone in a new tank.

Jim

Do a search for anemones on 3 reef and you can read about some of the problems encountered by people here.

coral reefer · 01-18-2007, 06:59 PM

For anemone's, as Diver1298 said, their aren't really any easy anemone's but their are some with better proven track records than others! Flower, and Condylactis, followed by Pacific long tentacle, and Bubble tip and possibly a Sebae.
Now a Clown won't have a symbiotic relationship with the first two mentioned, unfortunately, as far as I have heard.
I, personally love metal halides over any other type of lighting due to the irradiance and the crisp, sharp light unequaled by any other light source. The halides offer a "point source" light meaning that the light is manufactured by a filament in the bulb, rather than generated from the entire length of the tube such as with T5's and Power compacts and regular Fluorescents.
Also with the Halides, you get the GLITTER LINES caused by the rippling on top of the water. It is said that these glimmer lines/ripples can act as moving lenses often magnifying the light intensity up to 15X. This ability enables stronger light to pierce through the coral tissue to benefit the zooxanthellae(photosynthesis)!
As for the heat, I just use a fan to blow across the top of my water. You will have to replace some fresh water due to evaporational cooling but it is cheaper than a chiller IMO.

Tupps11 · 01-18-2007, 10:37 PM

Again guys, thanks for your responses. Im about to make my descision. Just wanted to make sure im not making a mistake. Im gonna go with the 4xT5 setup since i cant hang the metal halide on top of the aquarium. I was told by my lfs that MH needs to be 30cm above the surface of the water which is impossible in my room. I plan on addidng just 1 or 2 inverts like an anemone and something else (dont know yet).

Will it be more difficult to keep them alive as opposed to haveing a MH?