Ph wont raise past 8.0

[sjk2840]

Hi all, looking for some advice -just started a 10 gallon saltwater tank, which is now on week 2 of the cycle- I have well water where I live and cant get my ph to raise above 8.0- I've added the sealab block and ph buffer, I'm adding buffer on a daily basis. I had a salt tank 8 years ago and had city water and never had a ph problem- it was a perect 8.3. I know fish can tolerate 8.0-8.3 ph, should I just leave it at 8.0? thanks

[missionsix66]

Your well water is going to devistate you tank. It contains all kinds of bad things. I live on a well also. While the water is the best to drink around it's really bad for your tank. With a tank as small as you have you should be using bottled water (distilled). If you think you are having trouble now you'll be very dis-appointed in the future. As for the Ph I couldn't tell you, but, maybe your test kit. Try using another test kit.

[lunatik_69]

You shouldnt be adding anything or checking for anything at this point. Your still cycling. Ph comes into play later in the game, but not now. Words of advice; No lights, no additives, no water changes, if you have to use well water, it should pass through a RO/DI unit first.

[sssnake]

Originally Posted by lunatik_69

You shouldnt be adding anything or checking for anything at this point. Your still cycling. Ph comes into play later in the game, but not now. Words of advice; No lights, no additives, no water changes, if you have to use well water, it should pass through a RO/DI unit first.

... +1 on that.

[Tangster]

First off what time of day are you testing the P.h ? ALSO IF YOU ARE USING A LIQUID Regent COLOR kit its close at best a Calibrated P.H monitor is the only way to tell for sure then again time of day effects the P.H if its at 8 in the early A.M thats great hell mine runs at 7.7 to 7.8 just before lights come on. And after a hr or two of the Photo-period the P.H will rise ..
Also I never really care about the P.H if you are cycling this tank get a Test Kit for the Alk or Carbonate or DKH all mean the same thing just different method to test for them. Also the surface of the water may not be moving enough to allow for good gas exchange of the CO'2's that build up over night with oxygen. If you have a tight fitting glass top or hood remove the glass tops and or open the hood and add a fan.. I run a fan all night long to help pull in oxygen and exhaust CO2's .. But the bottom line is P.H in and of its self means little just worry about the proper Carbonate levels .. Thats all P.H really tells you is if there is any carbonates left to off set the systems acids like Tum's for the tank (:

And also I would tell anyone to use this cycling time to learn about the Carbonates and Calcium and Magnesium levels and how they all interact with each other and to get their tanks parameter up and steady and lean how to keep them like that.. better to learn now with a cycling fish or something in there rather then to try and learn once the more expensive animals are in there. But change no water ..

And never ever use well water unless its from a very deep 8 in. they are around 300 ft deep cased drilled well and its been tetsed for metals and other toxins if its a shallow bored well 75ft or so deep then I'd never even think about using it .