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12-19-2005, 10:36 AM
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#1 (permalink)
| | Peppermint Shrimp
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 403
Karma: 38

| initial tank filling I was just wondering about first filling the tank for the first time. I have a 125g tank and want to save my RO for longer use. Would I run into problems if use tap water to fill it up then do water changes with RO water? or 50/50 on initial fill???
Thanks!
GKW |
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12-19-2005, 11:05 AM
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#2 (permalink)
| | Torch Coral
Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: St. Paul/Woodbury, Minnesota Age: 50
Posts: 1,181
| Are you making a reef tank or FOWLR? For a FOWLR tank you would probalby be ok if your municiple water is of good quality- low nitrates, phosphates, total dissolved solids etc.. If you do use standard water then run a good quality activated charcoal and maybe seachems purinogen or cuprisorb for a few weeks to absorb heavy metals and other contaminates. _________ 75g reef with Nova Extreme 8 bulb HO T-5 lighting, refuge, Remora skimmer, DSB, Seio powerheads, Acro's, LPS corals, assorted zoo's & mushrooms, Yellow Tang, Maroon Clown, Blue Cleaner Goby , Cleaner, Fire and Sexy Shrimp, Coco Worm, T.Crocea Clam, Derasa Clam
120g FOWLR, 260w Orbit power compact lights, Remora Pro skimmer, 30g DIY Sump/Refuge, DSB,Seio Power heads, Powder Blue Tang, Purple Tang, Flag Fin Angel, False Eye Puffer, Copperbanded Butterfly and a Moorish Idol |
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12-19-2005, 11:12 AM
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#3 (permalink)
| | Peppermint Shrimp
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 403
Karma: 38

| well, i will start off with a FOWLR for at least a year...then maybe convert to reef or just do a 30g reef. About the seachems purinogen or cuprisorb, how much do they cost? and I have the activated carbon, is that the same as charcoal?
thanks! |
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12-19-2005, 11:21 AM
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#4 (permalink)
| | Eyelash Blennie
Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Lakeland, Fl
Posts: 1,294
| Yes, its the same. Unless your tap water is of unusual quality, meaning very low in dissolved solids You are going to be in for an algae outbreak. Of course I think anyone who starts up a new tank is in for an algae outbreak  But, I believe it would be minimized by using ro/di water. I wish I had started out that way. I am using it now but it seems like I am always trying to catch up on my algae and phosphates. ;( Buy the time you buy all the other stuff (they are just materials to remove contaminates) You probably could save time and money just using the ro/di water.
But if you do not have easy access to the ro/di water I would probably do as the Doc suggested. Quote the Raven ""
Jim
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90 Gallon glass, 135#'s of rock and 2" sand. 2-250w 20k XM metal halides. 2-95 watt actinic VHO, 4 powerheads, Coralife skimmer. Maroon Gold Striped Clown, Blue Chromis, Kole Tang, Pygmy Angel, Serpent Star, Brittle Star,Gorgonians, Mushrooms, Yellow Polyps, Turbo Snails & Blue Legged Hermits. 20 gal sump with Caulerpa, Mag 7 return pump. |
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12-19-2005, 11:51 AM
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#5 (permalink)
| | 3reef Moderator | When I first started my tank I used RO/DI from a water company. We get water delivered to the house for drinking. I just uped the amount one time and had enough water to fill. I wont do that again as it was very $$$$ much more so than a few RO/DI filters. I would just fill it with your RO/DI unit. It takes time but its the cheapest way
J |
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12-19-2005, 11:59 AM
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#6 (permalink)
| | Gigas Clam
Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Carpentersville, IL Age: 52
Posts: 874
Karma: 137
 
| If you are planning on buying a RODI just use it. The filters are replaceable. It is one less thing for you to worry about.
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300 Reef; 325LR, 1/2" sand bed in tank, 3" sand bed in 215 gal sump/refugium and Berliner PowerPro SS twin becket skimmer. 210 Reef; with 225 lbs of LR, 300 lb DSB, Large W/D and Jebo 520 skimmer modified to accept a becket. 90 RR FOWLR; tied into the 300's sump with a closed loop for extra circulation. 55 hospital. |
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12-19-2005, 12:06 PM
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#7 (permalink)
| | Peppermint Shrimp
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 403
Karma: 38

| Thanks for all the input! I guess it would be wise to use RO/DI water from the start then....since I plan to do reef later anyway.
Thanks again! |
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12-19-2005, 12:15 PM
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#8 (permalink)
| | Fire Worm
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 170
Karma: 28

| Quote: |
Originally Posted by Blade_Runner If you are planning on buying a RODI just use it. The filters are replaceable. It is one less thing for you to worry about. | I tend to agree. That way if you have a coral or two hitch hike on your live rock-and it survives the cycling process-it will stand a better chance of living and thriving. It will also make it easier on the fish and critters that are kept in the tank as they will have an easier time acclimating to your water--less stress--less shock= heathier fish (and hopefully no ich).
Be sure to have a separate tank set up to quaranteen each new fish for at least 2-3 weeks. That way you can hopefully catch any problem before it is turned loose into your main tank. QT tank only needs to have a good filter that will move the water around and adequate room for your fish to swim as daily water changes will most likely need to happen. For my tank--I have a ten gallon tank with a penguin rated for 30 gallons.
HTH
Anne |
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12-19-2005, 12:30 PM
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#9 (permalink)
| | Torch Coral
Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: St. Paul/Woodbury, Minnesota Age: 50
Posts: 1,181
| RO/DI water is definitely the way to go. You might check with your LFS and see if they sell RO water if you dont want to buy an RO unit now. If you do buy a unit get a good one and dont skimp. Mine will make 50g/day and its a 4stage. We use it for drinking water and the fish tanks.
Good Luck with your tank! |
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12-19-2005, 03:53 PM
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#10 (permalink)
| | Peppermint Shrimp
Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Dallas, TX,Texas
Posts: 401
Karma: 26

| I agree, especially with the comment made by Diver_1298. It can take months and months to reduce the phosphate levels that are likely in your tap water. This would lead to some serious algae headaches. If you're going to spend the money to step into the hobby, you might as well do it right the first time, a lesson that is often learned the hard way.
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120 gal, 40 gal sump/refugium, 2x250w 10,000K Reeflux MH, 54w T5 actinic, ASM G4+ |
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