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Old 04-12-2008, 01:40 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Ive always steered clear of copper, so Ive never used it but in this latest case I was just trying to save the tank, so I used what the LFS recommended. I looked them up and you are right, they are copper free. Thanks for the replies.
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Old 04-12-2008, 02:12 PM   #12 (permalink)
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one more thing since you are sutting the tank down for about 2 months I would recomend having the tank drilled for a closed loop and the over flow drain for your sump

if you have never specificaly used or dosed cu then you wont have to worrie about it

but like mentioned already lights and good skimmer make shure you get the best of these you can possibly afford I would recomend a skimmer that is rated to skim at least 150g


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Old 04-12-2008, 06:38 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Ill look for tips on how to drill a tempered tank (I thought it was impossible?) but thats a fantastic idea. Any links to a recommended DIY overflow or anything?
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Old 04-12-2008, 07:15 PM   #14 (permalink)
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is it tempered ? if so, drilling is a no-no Oh, i never said Welcome So WELCOME TO 3REEF!


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Old 04-12-2008, 07:36 PM   #15 (permalink)
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According to the manufacturers site the bottom is the only tempered part. That and the sticker on the tank says "the bottom is tempered blah blah blah" Im just reeeaaaallly nervous about rolling the dice on drilling the back/sides.

Is a plumbed in overflow system that much better than a hang on the back overflow?
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Old 04-12-2008, 07:57 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalsh1 View Post
According to the manufacturers site the bottom is the only tempered part. That and the sticker on the tank says "the bottom is tempered blah blah blah" Im just reeeaaaallly nervous about rolling the dice on drilling the back/sides.

Is a plumbed in overflow system that much better than a hang on the back overflow?
bar non ' drilled is far more easier and relible than using a "hang on".
and can defenentitly (drilled) move more water


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Old 04-12-2008, 08:15 PM   #17 (permalink)
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ok ok fine Ill do it.

Thats something Ive wanted to do to this tank forever anyway.

Can someone point me in the right direction to learn how to plan and accomplish the plumbing?
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Old 04-12-2008, 08:22 PM   #18 (permalink)
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first off if your nervous bout drilling it your self ( you should be lol )
if you do attempt that ' go very slow.....

then youll need a sump , wheres this tank going to be sitting ?
how much room do you have ?
in a cabinet ?
if so .. very easily done , you can purchase a wet/dry sump but i hear these
are nitrate factorys .
or simple , you can get hold of any tank , have it drilled for a pump..to draw off of and back into main tank > here look at mine then that "gives you a idea"
but there are lots of ways to do it.

But i like keeping it simple, some tanks look like a plumbing show expo. lol

ImageShack(TM) slideshow

keep in mind you will want to turn your "total" vloume of water over atleast 10 times per hour.
But the more the better.
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Old 04-12-2008, 08:32 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Fantastic.

I have a wet dry system I used during this tanks previous life, and Ive removed the bioballs and would like to use it as the sump. I think it may be too small and thats a different discussion alltogether. I may just buy a 30 gallon tank and create a new sump from that.

Right now my main question is how do I equalize the overflow rate with the return rate?
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Old 04-12-2008, 08:55 PM   #20 (permalink)
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simple if its "pumped" back into main tank , it will drain "by gravity" back into the sump

heres a calculator so you can decide how much water you can move by any certain pipe size diameter>
usealy most of us use any where 1.5 to 2.5 inch pipe , now as for your 75 gal.
i would think 1.5 inch pipe would do well , with 2 drains , and 2 inputs.

FLOW RATE CALCULATOR
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