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Old 09-02-2006, 05:41 PM   #121 (permalink)
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Excellent DIY overflow. I followed the diagram and it works perfectly. I am keeping my sump/refuge at tank level as I am keeping other critters in there, but it does work great. Thanks.

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Old 09-02-2006, 06:05 PM   #122 (permalink)
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Sweet nice Aquapod. Is that the one with the MH?
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Old 09-02-2006, 06:45 PM   #123 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Covey
Sweet nice Aquapod. Is that the one with the MH?
Actually this is an Odyssea 20 cube. It came with 2x36 50/50 and I added another. It's OK for the price ($79+tax) but it scratches easily. Thanks.
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Old 09-18-2006, 10:55 AM   #124 (permalink)
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I just built one of these and ive read this post like 30 times mine was working great for about 24 hours i was about half way through target feeding my corals and the siphon broke tank flooded now i cant get it to siphon any more....I also had a question..I ran pvc all the way down to the sump is that ok and does that need to be under water??? Also for the return i used the return pipe from my old fuval canister and when i turn the pump off it flows down that.
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Old 09-18-2006, 02:25 PM   #125 (permalink)
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I have now got it to siphon but now i have to keep sucking air bubbles out of the check valve!!! Help anyone?? im not sure what i did wrong now...my check valve had a leak and i fixed that now i donno what is wrong??
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Old 09-18-2006, 04:37 PM   #126 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomZoo
I have now got it to siphon but now i have to keep sucking air bubbles out of the check valve!!! Help anyone?? im not sure what i did wrong now...my check valve had a leak and i fixed that now i donno what is wrong??
You might need to make sure the check valve is sealed properly. There is something that you didn't do correctly if it isn't working right. The one I made I followed plans to the letter and it started right up and hasn't broke siphon since. I can even remove it, set it aside, put it back and it starts up again. So make sure everything above water level is sealed well.
Also, in your sump the return pump's intake should be set high in the sump so if siphon to the sump is broken than only a small amount of water is sent up to the display and the return pump runs dry (better than an overflow of water).
The DIY overflow should drain at the top so if the return from the sump stops due to power failer or bad pump than only a bit of water drains from the display to the sump, then breaks siphon.
The return line to the display should not go down below the DIY overflow intake or it can backsiphon in power goes out.
Use silicon around the checkvalve to make sure it doesn't leak. After you get the DIY to siphon the check valve should be closed tight.
Double check these plans. http://www.sirensongboutique.com/ani...s/overflow.gif
Hope this all makes sense. I got dizzy just writing it. Good luck.


_________

20gl cube
168wt 50/50 PC
1x 1200 MJ PH
approx. 25# LS
34# Fiji LR
various mushrooms, rics, zoos
1 Cherub angel
2 yellow watchman
1 Tiger pistol
1 Astrea snail
5gl AGA fuge
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Old 10-05-2006, 11:16 PM   #127 (permalink)
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Nice and simple design to make as the material used is available at your local hardware store. The only thing i am not a fan of is that there are 2 sets of pipes inside the tank. I came up with an idea of having only one pipe showing and the other pipe hidden inside of it. I have attached an image of the design, can anyone tell me if this will work? Thanks
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Old 10-06-2006, 06:27 PM   #128 (permalink)
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Yes it will work. At one point i was going to build one of those. Just make sure the big pipe can't fall off some how as it would siphon the tank down to the bottom of the inside pipe.

It should look nice.
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Old 10-06-2006, 06:57 PM   #129 (permalink)
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With all these designes, the long pipe inside the tank is not needed, this is the minimal that is required, the overlfow will not faill provided that air doesn't get into section D, the output A will set the water level of your tank, input B must be lower than the output A, the curve at C must also be below the water line.

it doesn't matter if the input is curved up it will still work however this will cause the vortex to form that makes the noise, the air going in could cause the syphon to fail, and so you will need to extend the pipe inside the tank.

I see no reason why you need to have the intake facing up, other than to take scum off the surface, if this is a must then use the idea Locutus shows, but same goes with the length, It doesn'thave to go all the way to the bottom of your tank.
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Old 10-07-2006, 10:59 AM   #130 (permalink)
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Covey...Thanks, I am actually going to glue the 2" pipe to the 1" to make sure that the level in the tank stays the same. Going to Home Depot this weekend for the materials.

BlackWhiteYellow...Thanks for the input but i can't seem to make out what you are pointing at (i assume that you've attached a diagram with your response). I am a mac user and for odd reason, i am only getting your response in text.
The curved input section that you were refering to that may cause a vortex, would removing the input elbow inside the 2" pipe and making the 1" inside pipe longer stop that from happening?
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