My Herbie overflow write up. (pics/beware)

Powerman · 03-01-2009, 06:31 PM

I wanted to do a write up here because there is not much info for it on this site.

The overflow is named for the user that posted it on Reef Central. It was back in 2004, and plenty of people use this system with no problems. The point of it is zero noise, and zero bubbles. This is for drilled tanks. Here is the original thread. All 600+ posts for your reading pleasure. His very first post explains it quite well and I see no reason to repeat it.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...hreadid=344892

The point is this, keep your main drain below the water level in the overflow box to keep out air. Use the gate valve to regulate this level. Use what was your return line as a secondary drain. Run it straight to the sump with no restriction. The secondary drain sits up higher above the water level, but obviously below the highest point you want your tank level. You plumb your return flow over the back of the tank.

Without further ado....

I added a fuge to my setup, and wanted a bit more flow to feed it. I split my drain line to do this. Here is my setup.

I had barbed bulkhead fitting with vinyl tubing. Very restrictive. I wanted to go to threaded fittings and oversized PVC. Here is a pic of the difference between barbed and threaded.

Drain

Return

I went with 1" PVC for the return and 1.5" for the drain. If I had to do it all over, 1.25 is plenty. Here is how I connected it up. The drain uses a simple 1.25 flex PVC coupling from HD. The return just uses one made from 1.25 vinyl tubing.

I had to use some silicone on the threads to ensure a seal. Since both are now returns and not subject to pressure, it is more than adequate.

I have tons of flow now from the upgrade. However, I now had tons of noise and TONS of bubble. I mean a metric **** ton. A lot.

Enter Herbie.

Powerman · 03-01-2009, 06:50 PM

As I said, originally I went with 1.5" drain just to go big. Since the Herbie makes both holes drain lines, all I needed was 1.25. Really 1" would be fine for the main drain.

So I needed to switch to the new design. I didn't waste much. Could still use most of my stuff, but now it is all cut up.

I constructed my main drain line out of 1.25 PVC. Has nothing to do with head pressure as some think, I just wanted a larger diameter to make more holes and leess clogging/cleaning. I just press fit everything so I can disassemble for cleaning.

In the overflow compartment. The top is about 3 inches lower than the tank overflow as per instructions.

I piped my return flow with 1", teeing off into 3/4" and going up to both sides of my tank.

*** WARNING***

A true gate valve is ESSENTIAL. A ball valve will not cut it. When I went to gather my parts, I found out there was not a single PVC gate valve in the city. I checked plumbing supply houses, pool/spa repair places, all the hardware stores... nothing. I had to order it on line from here. Had it in 3 days.

PVC Type II Gate Valves - US Plastic Corporation

After I was done I had a problem.

Powerman · 03-01-2009, 07:14 PM

My skimmer section is 3 inches or so lower than my fuge.

When I turned everything on My skimmer section actually siphoned out the fuge section. I placed my gate valve BEFORE the tee to my fuge. I didn't want the fuge to effect my level tuning of the overflow. However, since there is no air, it created a siphon.

I tried everything, but at the end of the day, I still had noise and bubbles.

I decided to put the gate valve AFTER the tee for my fuge.

***DISCLAIMER***

If you don't have a split return, you don't have to worry about this. Since I do it is a problem. I have a very low flow to my fuge, so I didn't think it would affect tuning that much. If you have a very high flow through your split, this might not work out so well for you.

Any way..... It is BRILIANT!!!

It is not hard at all to set my level. The low flow does not do much. I now have a completely silent overflow, completely silent sump, and zero bubble.

The Herbie is easy to do. It was designed for folks with reef ready tanks. I am not doing anything different, just following some guys write up. I love it. I delivers exactly what it promises.

Powerman · 03-12-2009, 07:36 PM

Just as an update, my Herbie has been working flawlessly. Needs very little attention. Very quiet, no bubbles. The only time I hear anything is if I let my overflow get too low. But I have been keeping it higher. I have only adjusted it a couple of times, and when I do a slight turn of the valve gives very predictable results. I very happy I did this.

rodcpierce · 03-12-2009, 07:59 PM

i am currently using ball valves, and ive got it working pretty good. Its super touchy, but ive got it adjusted great right now. Nice writeup!

Powerman · 03-12-2009, 08:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rodcpierce

i am currently using ball valves, and ive got it working pretty good. Its super touchy, but ive got it adjusted great right now. Nice writeup!

Just understand that ball valve do not flow linear. They flow more in the middle of their range. The valves are tight and you might turn them more than you want.

I work with valves so I wanted a gate. However, balls will work if you happen to have them in a decent range. You can work with the middle. Not real good almost closed, or almost open.

Powerman · 03-12-2009, 08:16 PM

OMG!

I wish some one would have told me. I posted a link to my stuff on Reef Central where I should have posted the original Herbie Thread.

I fixed it. The original Herbie thread is now posted. The first post explains his reasoning. The rest of the thread was split like many other threads there that get huge. It has over 650 posts from over the years. Many different setups and people running it.

rodcpierce · 03-12-2009, 08:34 PM

Yes, my valves are super sensitive. Ive got them adjusted perfect right now. Been good for the last 6 or so hours, so i would assume they are good to go!

Wilber · 03-15-2009, 05:43 PM

Ya, mine will randomly just start goin crazy on me, the return area pretty much emptys, and the skimmer area emptys out, and air fills the lines. But the real kicker is I didnt touch a thing, I was in bed last night and heard funny noises, and it was the tank goin nuts. I have to adjust mine all the time! its driving me nuts.

rodcpierce · 03-15-2009, 05:46 PM

wilber. i have found that the water level in the sump affects the height of the water in the overflows.... wierd i know but something i have figured out on mine anyhow.

03-01-2009, 06:31 PM	#1 (permalink)
Powerman McKoscker’s Flasher Wrasse Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Colorado Posts: 2,214 Skin: Classic Karma: 78107	My Herbie overflow write up. (pics/beware) I wanted to do a write up here because there is not much info for it on this site. The overflow is named for the user that posted it on Reef Central. It was back in 2004, and plenty of people use this system with no problems. The point of it is zero noise, and zero bubbles. This is for drilled tanks. Here is the original thread. All 600+ posts for your reading pleasure. His very first post explains it quite well and I see no reason to repeat it. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...hreadid=344892 The point is this, keep your main drain below the water level in the overflow box to keep out air. Use the gate valve to regulate this level. Use what was your return line as a secondary drain. Run it straight to the sump with no restriction. The secondary drain sits up higher above the water level, but obviously below the highest point you want your tank level. You plumb your return flow over the back of the tank. Without further ado.... I added a fuge to my setup, and wanted a bit more flow to feed it. I split my drain line to do this. Here is my setup. I had barbed bulkhead fitting with vinyl tubing. Very restrictive. I wanted to go to threaded fittings and oversized PVC. Here is a pic of the difference between barbed and threaded. Drain Return I went with 1" PVC for the return and 1.5" for the drain. If I had to do it all over, 1.25 is plenty. Here is how I connected it up. The drain uses a simple 1.25 flex PVC coupling from HD. The return just uses one made from 1.25 vinyl tubing. I had to use some silicone on the threads to ensure a seal. Since both are now returns and not subject to pressure, it is more than adequate. I have tons of flow now from the upgrade. However, I now had tons of noise and TONS of bubble. I mean a metric **** ton. A lot. Enter Herbie. Last edited by Powerman; 03-12-2009 at 08:25 PM.

03-12-2009, 08:16 PM	#7 (permalink)
Powerman McKoscker’s Flasher Wrasse Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Colorado Posts: 2,214 Skin: Classic Karma: 78107	OMG! I wish some one would have told me. I posted a link to my stuff on Reef Central where I should have posted the original Herbie Thread. I fixed it. The original Herbie thread is now posted. The first post explains his reasoning. The rest of the thread was split like many other threads there that get huge. It has over 650 posts from over the years. Many different setups and people running it. Last edited by Powerman; 03-12-2009 at 08:26 PM.

LinkBacks (?) LinkBack to this Thread: http://www.3reef.com/forums/i-made/my-herbie-overflow-write-up-pics-beware-60239.html
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03-01-2009, 06:50 PM	#2 (permalink)
Powerman McKoscker’s Flasher Wrasse Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Colorado Posts: 2,214 Skin: Classic Karma: 78107	As I said, originally I went with 1.5" drain just to go big. Since the Herbie makes both holes drain lines, all I needed was 1.25. Really 1" would be fine for the main drain. So I needed to switch to the new design. I didn't waste much. Could still use most of my stuff, but now it is all cut up. I constructed my main drain line out of 1.25 PVC. Has nothing to do with head pressure as some think, I just wanted a larger diameter to make more holes and leess clogging/cleaning. I just press fit everything so I can disassemble for cleaning. In the overflow compartment. The top is about 3 inches lower than the tank overflow as per instructions. I piped my return flow with 1", teeing off into 3/4" and going up to both sides of my tank. * WARNING* A true gate valve is ESSENTIAL. A ball valve will not cut it. When I went to gather my parts, I found out there was not a single PVC gate valve in the city. I checked plumbing supply houses, pool/spa repair places, all the hardware stores... nothing. I had to order it on line from here. Had it in 3 days. PVC Type II Gate Valves - US Plastic Corporation After I was done I had a problem.

03-01-2009, 07:14 PM	#3 (permalink)
Powerman McKoscker’s Flasher Wrasse Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Colorado Posts: 2,214 Skin: Classic Karma: 78107	My skimmer section is 3 inches or so lower than my fuge. When I turned everything on My skimmer section actually siphoned out the fuge section. I placed my gate valve BEFORE the tee to my fuge. I didn't want the fuge to effect my level tuning of the overflow. However, since there is no air, it created a siphon. I tried everything, but at the end of the day, I still had noise and bubbles. I decided to put the gate valve AFTER the tee for my fuge. *DISCLAIMER* If you don't have a split return, you don't have to worry about this. Since I do it is a problem. I have a very low flow to my fuge, so I didn't think it would affect tuning that much. If you have a very high flow through your split, this might not work out so well for you. Any way..... It is BRILIANT!!! It is not hard at all to set my level. The low flow does not do much. I now have a completely silent overflow, completely silent sump, and zero bubble. The Herbie is easy to do. It was designed for folks with reef ready tanks. I am not doing anything different, just following some guys write up. I love it. I delivers exactly what it promises.

03-12-2009, 07:36 PM	#4 (permalink)
Powerman McKoscker’s Flasher Wrasse Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Colorado Posts: 2,214 Skin: Classic Karma: 78107	Just as an update, my Herbie has been working flawlessly. Needs very little attention. Very quiet, no bubbles. The only time I hear anything is if I let my overflow get too low. But I have been keeping it higher. I have only adjusted it a couple of times, and when I do a slight turn of the valve gives very predictable results. I very happy I did this.

03-12-2009, 07:59 PM	#5 (permalink)
rodcpierce Ritteri Anemone Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Cedar Rapids, IA Age: 26 Posts: 600 Skin: Dark Karma: 3053	i am currently using ball valves, and ive got it working pretty good. Its super touchy, but ive got it adjusted great right now. Nice writeup!

03-12-2009, 08:34 PM	#8 (permalink)
rodcpierce Ritteri Anemone Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Cedar Rapids, IA Age: 26 Posts: 600 Skin: Dark Karma: 3053	Yes, my valves are super sensitive. Ive got them adjusted perfect right now. Been good for the last 6 or so hours, so i would assume they are good to go!

03-15-2009, 05:43 PM	#9 (permalink)
Wilber Fire Worm Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Kansas city Age: 21 Posts: 152 Skin: Mint Karma: 496	Ya, mine will randomly just start goin crazy on me, the return area pretty much emptys, and the skimmer area emptys out, and air fills the lines. But the real kicker is I didnt touch a thing, I was in bed last night and heard funny noises, and it was the tank goin nuts. I have to adjust mine all the time! its driving me nuts.

03-15-2009, 05:46 PM	#10 (permalink)
rodcpierce Ritteri Anemone Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Cedar Rapids, IA Age: 26 Posts: 600 Skin: Dark Karma: 3053	wilber. i have found that the water level in the sump affects the height of the water in the overflows.... wierd i know but something i have figured out on mine anyhow.