DIY Sump/Refugium advice...Measurement help??? - Page 7

Otty · 11-26-2007, 11:36 AM

Hope it works well. I never did like that kind because it is gaudy to me in a tank. I like to to look clean and no clutter in the tank.
Mommy says I have a sickness....

jbaker · 11-26-2007, 01:44 PM

Otty you are truly an inspiration! I do have a couple of questions though. In the thread you said you reduced the return line from 1" down to 3/4". Where did you do this and what is the purpose? Is there anything you would do different now that your sump is up and running? Thanks for the help.

smallcrpt · 11-26-2007, 01:46 PM

I've made a few baffles out of the broken windshields off golf carts, its tinted too.
What would I use to adhere the acrylic (1/4 inch) to the wall of the glass?
I've read weld=on 4 or 6... any ideas on the best one?
-chris

jbaker · 11-26-2007, 02:05 PM

Weld on is for an acrylic to acrylic bond, not acrylic to glass. Just use 100 silicone. You won't actually bond the acrylic to the glass, it's more like sandwiching the glass between two beads of silicone to hold it in place. The glass won't flex enough to need an actual bond between the two. By the way, I like Weld On 16 the best for acrylic. Same consistency as plastic model cement, easy to use.

smallcrpt · 11-26-2007, 02:32 PM

i bought a good amount of aquarium silicon, the one that goes into the gun. That will work correct?
I hope i have another slow day at work so i can do this again all day long.
-chri\s

jbaker · 11-26-2007, 04:09 PM

Make sure it is 100% silicone. If it has any type of mold or mildew inhibitor it will not work for the tank. GE Silicone I is good, GE Silicone II is not. The brand or delivery method isn't that important as long as it's 100% sillicone. If it's labeled as aquarium silicone it shold be fine. Sorry Otty, didn't mean to hijack your thread. Back to you.

Otty · 11-26-2007, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbaker

In the thread you said you reduced the return line from 1" down to 3/4". Where did you do this and what is the purpose? Is there anything you would do different now that your sump is up and running? Thanks for the help.

I used 1" all the way to the floor to add pressure to the 3/4" with gravity (like a Durso Dtandpipe) so it would move water quick. I ran this across the floor and into another room where I kept the sump. I also never used a 90 degree turn in the plumbing return only two 45 degrees if I needed. That way there would be no restriction in the flow.
The only thing I would have done different is made a bypass (or channel) where I had the fuge so I could keep a good flow across the sump but be able to slow the water down across the fuge so my calurpa would grow good.

smallcrpt · 11-27-2007, 06:16 AM

I got my pieces all setup. i posted in ASAP cause i need it silicon'd today.. but i'll post here just for hte purpose of helpin.

i wanna do it soon so hopefully someone ssays ya that;'ll work fine
-chris

Otty · 11-27-2007, 06:46 AM

The red mark you have is where the LR rubble will be right???

If so then it needs to be put higher because it won't be above water level. You have to make the bottom of the chamber at the same height as the baffles (9.5) in the return pump chamber.

smallcrpt · 11-27-2007, 07:00 AM

hehe i guess i shoulda drawn that more to scale, i have about 3 inches above the water line
lemme go look and make sure..
-chris
ya its 2.5 inches of area for rocks which is .5 inchs above the water line
now whats a good method for doing hte silicon? do i leave the pieces wedges where they are and just apply to the outside or do i put a bead in and then put the pieces down in?