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03-08-2008, 11:32 PM
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#1 (permalink)
| | Fire Shrimp
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 330
Karma: 123
 |  DIY stand
ok i might start doing my stand in the next few weeks, what is is that i have to watch for? the stand has to be level right? do i put center bar in between the poles? when i put the tank on, do i put something in between like foam or anything?
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55g AGA 55lb LR, 55lb sand, CPR skimmer, magnum 350, koralia 1.
in progress:
120g RR, 40 sump/fuge, panworld 50pxx, 2 x 250 Lumen Bright Reeflux 12k coralvue ballst, 2x54 t5 current usa, 24 led moonlight, shallow sand bed, 2x Koralia 4, around 200lbs rock, msx 200, aquac phosphate reactor... If you see something better out there, let me know. most of the parts still being process. | 
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03-09-2008, 04:16 AM
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#2 (permalink)
| | Teardrop Maxima Clam
Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Quebec City
Posts: 806
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Their are a few different ways to build a stand ie timber or steel with or without hooding.
is it for the 55 or 120 as you will need to consider what you will be keeping under it also.
A flat top surface is important some lay a sheet of timber some go with just the frame to support the tank.
As for foam or rubber under the tank some will say yes, some will say no. Personaly I use it and it doesnt matter what anyone can say to me to change my train of thought  30 years with 48'' tanks in house never had a problem.
But then theirs others the oposite to me.
Maybee you an check some DIY sites theres heaps out their . | |
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03-09-2008, 05:55 AM
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#3 (permalink)
| | Whip-Lash Squid
Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Elizabethtown, IN Age: 40
Posts: 2,980
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Make sure you build the tank so that the height is up far enough that you don't have to bend over to enjoy anything in the tank. The bottom of my tank starts at 3' off the ground for excellent viewing while standing up.
As for the structure, if you lay a 2x6 on edge for the top rim you should be good for not having a center brace. I have heard of people putting Styrofoam in between acrylic tanks and stand to help disperse the weight. Just make sure you build the top level or can add shims pretty easy. _________ Scott 265g (Peninsula)
3x400w MH's, 4x95w Actinics, AAT Lunar Lights, OM 4-way CL, PM Bullet 3 Skimmer, DelZone Eclipse 1 O3 Generator, WavySea Plus for return, AAT Kalk Reactor, KNOP Ca Reactor w/PM Second Chamber, TradeWinds Chiller, ACIII Controller, Oceanus ATO, PM PO4 Reactor, 75g Sump, 30g Fuge Born March 5, 2007 My 265 Gal. Tank Thread " REAL TIME TANK STATS "   | |
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03-09-2008, 06:32 AM
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#4 (permalink)
| | Ritteri Anemone
Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: South Florida
Posts: 612
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This is a good design for a stand of any size. My apologies to the poster of this stand. I saved these pics to my HDD after I read this post, and don't recall who the OP was. The first pic was to illustrate the different pieces used. The same color pieces were of the same length and position. If I recall, 2x4s are safe to use for up to 120 gallons. Anything beyond that, and 2x6s are a better choice.
Some important point in the original post were to be sure not to screw pieces together so that the light green pieces bear any weight. The light green pieces are simply to hold the pieces together like a frame.
This is a great design, and in one way or another, most aquarium stands sold at LFS are made this way.    
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90G. Kent Phos Reactor running carbon and PhosBan, Coral Life 225 Skimmer, Typhoon 5 Stage RO/DI, 20 Gal Sump/Refugium with Chaetomorpha lit opposite daylight cycle. Coralife 2x150MH+2x96W PC Actinics, Ecotech Vortech propeller pump, Hydor Koralia #3. | |
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03-10-2008, 07:47 AM
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#5 (permalink)
| | Fire Shrimp
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 330
Karma: 123
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what size of the tank is that stand for? | |
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03-10-2008, 02:17 PM
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#6 (permalink)
| | Ritteri Anemone
Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: South Florida
Posts: 612
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I can't tell from the pic, but if you notice, it's two different stands. It looks like the first is a standard 48"x18", maybe for a 90, or 120? The second one looks as though it may be a square 24"x24". I'm not sure though.
I believe this is the standard tank stand frame, it gets covered by plywood or whatever you choose. It can't be beat for rigidity and sturdiness. I believe the OP stated that each vertical 2x4 is good for about 10,000 lbs; and once the plywood or shell gets screwed in place, there's no chance of torsion, twist or fwd/backwards side/side sway. It's actually overkill. I love them because the whole front below the tank is open; no center vertical piece to get in the way. | |
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