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Old 11-24-2007, 03:30 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Would this mixture cause problems with PH???
Nope! In the concentration range I use , there is no detectable effect on pH.

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PM messages leaves the 3Reef population in the dark so please, regardless, of nasayers, keep us updated as to your reseach, repeated treatments, long term results and any side effects that you might find!

Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge and if you come up with any other ideas, please keep us updated! Many here can help you along in your research if need be!
Thanks for feedback and support. I've performed this 3 times now. There are no side effects observable. I was paying special attention to my snails and hermit crabs. I've got purple button polyp. So I can't extrapolate the effect of this treatment for other corals. However, this one was doing very well! I've adopted this procedure and now it is the 1st step of my QT treatment:

step 1 - 7 days in QT tank with DIY ICK medicine applied every 2 days.
step 2 - RO/DI water dips every 24h for 30-60s, depending on stress level.

Therapy is complemented by feeding with: garlic extract/vit. C/multivitamin complex soaked food. Application of additional ozonizer can speed up the therapy (the machanism of medications action involves oxidation in water, to create active form of medicine).

Moreover,
I've performed so called "adsorption assay". After complete 7-day treatment , I've placed 500g of highly active adsorption medium (EHFIAKTIVE, by EHEIM, Germany) in my external filter. Water flow in my additional unit is 650 gph (with filter media) so approx. 8.5x my tank / h. I've been taking water sample every 4h from the treated tank and performing measurements in the lab: 1D proton NMR spectroscopy measurements. According to my measurements the medication is adsorbed to the undetectable level (0.01 ppm) in 16h. So, the conclusion is: it can be effectively removed from the display tank, using standard aquaristic equipment.

Enjoy!


_________

75gal. Rio240 JEWEL aquarium
4x54W T5 (actinic blue+white)
Deltec MC 500 internal skimmer
Eheim 2227 Fitler Wet/Dry
Eheim 2213 Filter (100gph/PhosGuard/DeNitrate)
JEWEL Internal Filter (250gph/EhfiSubstrat Pro 2gal)


2 lovely Amphiprion ocelaris
1 young
Gobiodon okinawae


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Old 11-24-2007, 09:22 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Another question about the mix, would it be safe to use any of these ?Dimethoxyethane - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia it list dimethyl glycol as a A.K.A


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SETUP-3Reef shirt&bumper sticker,90gal Tank, 250 watt Heater, . 40lbs live sand , 40lbs L/R - 4x65watt PC , Mag12 return pump, 30 gal sump/fuge
FISH-1 Blue Throat Trigger,1 Yellow Watchman, 2 Green Chromis,1 Maroon clown,1 squirrel fish,Lawnmower Blenny
CORAL--Purple Zoanths, Stoney Atlantic Coral, Toadstool , Finger leather, Trumpet,Star polyps
INVERTS-1 Skunk cleaner shrimp,3 Feather Dusters,1 bristle star, 2sand stars, 30 mixed snails, 15 blue leg hermits,4Emerald crabs,2 Tuxedo urchins
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Old 11-25-2007, 01:49 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Another question about the mix, would it be safe to use any of these ?Dimethoxyethane - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia it list dimethyl glycol as a A.K.A
In principle yes. BUT ONE WOULD HAVE TO DILUTE IT MORE AND FILTER THE SOLUTION!

Otherwise it will have very funny aromatic smell... Please be careful when handling this. This compounds may be explosive when dried!
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Old 11-25-2007, 02:20 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Just turn the heater up to 80 or 81 for a week it will cycle out..Ich will not kill a fish no more then fleas can kill a dog or cat.. Its the infection that they can create when the hosts immune system is weakened by them feeding from the animal.
I have to totaly disagree with this statement as it is just perpetuating yet another myth about this parasite. Being that our tropical reef fish have evolved for life in the low 80's, so have the parasites that feed upon them. By turning up the heat to 81, you are only recreating the natural environment that both fish and parasite find ideal. This parasite, can easily kill a fish also. The usual first indications of an infestation is the fish gilling rapidly. This is because the gills are most easily attacked and attached to since their membranes are very thin to allow the transfer of oxygen. If infested heavily, the fishes gills can easily become so damaged as to cause asphyxiation, if that doesn't get the fish, then secondary bacterial/fungal infections could as you mentioned.

Chuck
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Old 11-25-2007, 02:23 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Since I had to make a first post before links are allowed, I can now include this:

Marine Ich

and, just in case: Recommended water temperatures

Chuck
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Old 11-25-2007, 02:32 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Thanks! Very good reference!

Last edited by Camilsky : 11-25-2007 at 03:02 AM.
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Old 11-25-2007, 06:56 AM   #27 (permalink)
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I have to totaly disagree with this statement as it is just perpetuating yet another myth about this parasite. Being that our tropical reef fish have evolved for life in the low 80's, so have the parasites that feed upon them. By turning up the heat to 81, you are only recreating the natural environment that both fish and parasite find ideal. This parasite, can easily kill a fish also. The usual first indications of an infestation is the fish gilling rapidly. This is because the gills are most easily attacked and attached to since their membranes are very thin to allow the transfer of oxygen. If infested heavily, the fishes gills can easily become so damaged as to cause asphyxiation, if that doesn't get the fish, then secondary bacterial/fungal infections could as you mentioned.

Chuck
It's deja vu all over again. Regardless of whether or not you agree, this method has always worked for me in treating ich. I truly hope that you don't dispute everything I say here like you did on the About and Fishy Frolics forums. You do things your way and I'll do them mine. My methods are based on experience, not book learning, and they have never done me wrong in over 30 years. I'm not going to change my methods or stop sharing them with others simply because you don't agree.


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Old 11-25-2007, 06:59 AM   #28 (permalink)
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It's deja vu all over again. Regardless of whether or not you agree, this method has always worked for me in treating ich. I truly hope that you don't dispute everything I say here like you did on the About and Fishy Frolics forums. You do things your way and I'll do them mine. My methods are based on experience, not book learning, and they have never done me wrong in over 30 years. I'm not going to change my methods or stop sharing them with others simply because you don't agree.
I take your side tangster. I'm also keeping elevated temp. So in other words trying to fight with ich in multiple ways, and simultaneously keep the stress level as low as possible!
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Old 11-25-2007, 10:07 AM   #29 (permalink)
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The last couple days I,ve been using Malachite Green with elevated water temps,plus GarlicExtreme and Zoe as a food soak.

Finding Dimethyl glycol so far isn,t going too easy, but that mix will be the next shot at it.

Then comes the, empty the tank scenario and QT the fish..after the holidays

Last edited by trying it again : 11-25-2007 at 10:17 AM.
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Old 11-25-2007, 11:04 AM   #30 (permalink)
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The last couple days I,ve been using Malachite Green with elevated water temps,plus GarlicExtreme and Zoe as a food soak.

Finding Dimethyl glycol so far isn,t going too easy, but that mix will be the next shot at it.

Then comes the, empty the tank scenario and QT the fish..after the holidays
Yup... Sounds reasonable...! Listen! If you can't find it search for exodin by Aqua Medic (Germany). It is basically the same composition! The nicest thing is you can use it in your display tank!

Good luck!
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