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01-13-2007, 09:24 AM
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#21 (permalink)
| | Astrea Snail
Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Upstate NY Age: 37
Posts: 44
Karma: 118
  | Step 16: A bit more reveling. Once the stain has dried completely, it’s time to take another peek at the overall look. The difference this time is, we are doing it with a bit more purpose. Tip the project back, prop it up with a scrap 2x4 and put the doors in place. Take a good long look. Make sure you are happy with the color. If not, this is the time to make any adjustments. A second coat will darken up the existing color. A coat of another color will adjust the hue a bit. But if you’re happy with the look, it’s time to seal the deal. 
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Take pride in what you do, for it is a reflection of who you are.
Last edited by SKAustin; 01-13-2007 at 09:45 AM.
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01-13-2007, 09:25 AM
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#22 (permalink)
| | Astrea Snail
Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Upstate NY Age: 37
Posts: 44
Karma: 118
  | Step 17: A few coats of Polyurethane Well, we’re nearly finished now. A few coats of Polyurethane will seal up the wood for protection from the inevitable spilling of water, and give it that real furniture look. If you are using Stain Crayon to fill your nail holes, here is the time to do it. Fill your holes, and then wipe off any excess with a clean dry cloth.
It's time for a clean brush and a well-stirred can of Polyurethane. Take your time here. Apply thin even coats with a diligent watchful eye for any drips or runs. Take your time here. This step could make or break the overall appearance of the entire project. If you’ve never applied polyurethane before, here are a few pointers that will prove helpful.
*Take your time.
*Apply thin even coats.
*Do not get too much Poly in the brush at one time. That would be asking for problems.
*When moving the brush from the can to the project, slowly rotate the brush to prevent the poly from dripping off of the brush.
*Never draw your brush over a corner into the project, as this will cause runs.
*Draw your brush from the project, toward the corner and continue straight off the edge.
*When at all possible, adjust the project so that you are working on a flat, horizontal surface. This will reduce the chance of drips and runs.
*Allow the project several hours to dry before attempting to move it.
*Lightly sand the finished wood with fine steel wool between coats.
*Take your time! Don’t rush it.
Ok, with that said, 2 coats of poly to any inside and backside surfaces, 3 coats of poly to any outside surfaces or inside surfaces that water may repeatedly be spilt upon. 
Last edited by SKAustin; 01-13-2007 at 09:46 AM.
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01-13-2007, 09:27 AM
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#23 (permalink)
| | Astrea Snail
Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Upstate NY Age: 37
Posts: 44
Karma: 118
  | Step 18: Adding the hardware Measure and mark the holes for your hinges and door handles. Pre-drill the holes taking extreme care not to drill the holes for the hinges all the way through the doors, and install the hardware. Make sure to thoroughly check your door clearance at the top and the bottom prior to the final tightening of your hinges. Then just add a few felt pads to the corners of the door for a nice quiet operation. 
Last edited by SKAustin; 01-13-2007 at 09:47 AM.
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01-13-2007, 09:28 AM
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#24 (permalink)
| | Astrea Snail
Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Upstate NY Age: 37
Posts: 44
Karma: 118
  | Step 19: Preparing for the tank One last order of business before we can put this project to work. Have the Empty tank ready for this step. Apply a bead of Liquid Nails For Projects around the perimeter of the stand where the tank frame will sit and lay the cork (or foam) on top of the bead. Do not push the cork down onto the bead. Carefully set the empty tank onto the stand and allow the tank to compress the cork onto the bead. Allow the liquid nails a few hours to set, and then remove the tank. If possible, let the Liquid Nails dry overnight before replacing and filling the tank. 
Last edited by SKAustin; 01-13-2007 at 09:47 AM.
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01-13-2007, 09:32 AM
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#26 (permalink)
| | Astrea Snail
Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Upstate NY Age: 37
Posts: 44
Karma: 118
  | Step 21: Top it off with a nice matching canopy. Once completed and ready to go, you can start construction of a nice matching canopy. 
Last edited by SKAustin; 01-13-2007 at 09:48 AM.
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01-15-2007, 05:45 AM
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#27 (permalink)
| | Astrea Snail
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 38
Karma: 16

| nice work! |
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01-15-2007, 08:24 AM
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#28 (permalink)
| | Spaghetti Worm
Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Tallahassee, FL Age: 25
Posts: 177
Karma: 46

| Karma for your skills and time.
_________
30 Gallon Oceanic Hexagon- 70 lbs Sand -60 lbs LR Aqua C Remora w/ MJ1200. Inverts:1 Tonga Fighting Conch (Strombus gibberulus) 3 Mexican Turbos (Turbo fluctuosa) 5 Astrea Snails (Astraea tecta) 3 Red Foot Algea Snail (Norrisia norrisi) 1 Lavender BTA (Entacmaea quadricolor) 2 Olive snails Olivella sp. 15 Nassarius vibex 1 Pistol shrimp....polyps...zoas...shrooms
Fish: 1 Coral Beauty (Centropyge bispinosus) 1 Two spotted goby (Gobiusculus flavescens) |
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01-15-2007, 08:34 AM
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#29 (permalink)
| | KingFish
Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: Pt. Richmond, Ca. Age: 38
Posts: 7,415
| Fantastic! What a great looking stand. You have been busy, eh?
Thank you for all the detail, I am sure many will find this helpful. |
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01-15-2007, 08:35 AM
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#30 (permalink)
| | Sea Dragon
Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Kalispell, MT
Posts: 533
Karma: 47

| Very nice! _________ Senior Noob Setting my 75 back up soon Main SW Tank:
55gal, 70LBS of Tonga/LFSDIY, 50lbs LS, 1x250watt MH(20k), AquaC Remora Skimmer Live stock: Velvet Damsel, (12)Blue legged crab, lawnmower blenny, (1)cleaner shrimp, Yellow Tang, Featherduster CoralsRandom Zoo's(like 10), more zoo's,red mushrooms and hairy mushrooms, Sinularia |
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