Help! and I will donate $20.00 to 3reef

I am trying to figure out the closed loop plumbing for my new setup. I want to get this planned out but I have not been able to find a good resource. I do not claim to be a plumber but I can get this done with guidance. Can someone please throw me a bone and help design this? I promise a lot of Karma will come your way. I'll even go so far as to pledge a $20.00 donation to 3reef.com for a detailed drawing and parts list. Please don't make me beg anymore!

1. my tank is acrylic 240 Gallons with a center overflow along the back wall. drilled at the bottom of the overflow a 5 holes two 1.5" and three 1" bulkhead holes. (see pic)



2. Here is a link to the sump / refugium design I am having built. mine will be 56x16x16. Melevsreef.com | Acrylic Sumps & Refugiums

3. I will be using an Aqua C EV-240 skimmer. here is the link EV240

4. I am considering using the Ocean Motion 4 way if it will work with this setup.

5. There are holes in the top of the tank in each corner and on each side of the overflow which could be used with the flexible nozzles (don't know what they are called).

5. I am not scared to place additional holes in the tank to make this work.

6. And the most important question is how do I keep it from flooding the sump and my house in the event the power goes out?

If I am missing something that you need to know I will provide it.

To everyone who helps Thank you in advance and karma will be coming your way!

 

bump

 

More pictures of your overflow, inside outside of the tank. These will help with the design. One issue I see is where that 2 x 4 is the larger holes are too close when you try and put a bulkhead in you will be running into issues. They will not be able to tighten them down. If you can move the tank and notch it some how or raise the tank a bit to give you more room.

 

You need to talk to Otty and Tangster.

 

Chetrod,

Thanks for the input. When I took that picture from under the tank the tank was not pushed in all the way. It goes in about another 1/2" to 3/4". Here are more pictures as requested.

 

On each of your return lines, make sure you put swing check valves, they will prevent siphoning back into your sump from the return lines if the power goes out on your return pump(s). When you get your sump/fuge, you will have to experiment on the water level to see where your water line needs to be. You will have to fill your DT up and let it drain down to your sump and fill it less than what you think it should be. Generally you want to give 2-3" from the top of the sump, of course that will vary on each system. Cut the power to your return pump so the sump will fill with the water draining from the overflow. If it gets too close to the top of the sump and water is still draining, plug the pump back in to prevent overflow. Drain out some water and redo that. Once you get your water to drain from your DT to stop, and your sump is not overflowing (you should have about 1" or less from the top of your sump at this point), get a sharpie marker. Turn your pump back on until your tank water stabilizes again. Go to your return chamber and mark off the water level there, and mark it as "max water level". When you top off your water, you don't want to go above that line or you will flood your sump and house. You can also mark off a minimum water level if you choose, but you can see when you get too low without that, so it's not too necessary. I hope this helps answer what you are asking for. Good luck with this, I'm sure you will have a beautiful tank very soon.

 

Tigermike74,

Thanks for the tip on mot flooding my house. I understand that now. I guess I just need to figure out how to plumb the system now.

 

I'd not waste to much money on a check valve in hopes that it would provide a 100% shut off from any back drainage to floor , Heck after a few months many ball seldom shut off 100% . Calcium and tube worms and grit , sand usually get into them sooner or later . If its the circulation loop then thats a 100% sealed anyways like a house water system and if its the overflow to sump and the sump's water capacity that has you worried ? then a vacuum brake is what you need ..

For the offerof the generous 3reef Donation P/M or e/m me and I'll walk you through it and can help you with evertything from laying it out to all needed parts

 

I guess they were right about you Tangster! Thanks for agreeing to help me out with this and as I promised I have donated $20.00 to 3reef.com. Tangster if you can please tell me in a PM what your plans are so I have an idea. Once I get started on the plumbing I will post a thread with detailed pictures for others to learn from also.

Oh and for those who may say did he donate? here is the proof.


Transaction ID: 1GV99680X3987783K Placed on Mar. 11, 2009 Payment For Quantity Price 3reef.com
Item #20dollars 1 $20.00 USD Subtotal: $20.00 USD Sales Tax: $0.00 USD
Total Amount: $20.00 USD

 

I agree that check valves are not a silver bullet, but it's better than nothing at all. I have one on my return lines as a safety net. You can also drill a hole at your return in the output nozzle in your tank. When the water drains down to the hole, air will enter and break the siphon. Tangster always has great information, you can't go wrong taking his advice.