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Old 07-24-2007, 03:50 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Brain Pickin Time

It is time for me once again to seek the advice, guidance and wisdom of all you guru reefers. So, if you're willing, here we go:

1. HEATER: I have a 100w Rena fully submersible heater, but I'm a little scared of it. I tested it in a bucket and seemed kinda flaky. Looking for recs. Thankfully, I don't need it yet because I've been able to keep tank temp. at 77d without one. But the time will come....

2. LIVE SAND: I was considering adding a bit more live sand for a total of 3-4 inches. My tank is not quite done cycling. Can't get those "effin" nitrates lower than 20. (More about that later). OK to do?

3. SALT: What is the best salt to use for mixing for use in water changes? With the stuff I've been using, when I pour the water mixture into a bucket, I can see all this stuff (undissolved salt, I assume) floating around. Also, I've been trying to raise the SG from 1.023 to 1.025. What is the best way to accomplish that?

That's all for now. I'm going to post my filtration question in Filter Forums. Thanks!!!!!!

Linda


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Linda


29g Nano 2 FSL 8000k 36w & 2 AquaLux 36w Blue
Pump: 1200 LPH; Maxi-Jet 600 Powerhead
100w Visi Stealth submersible heater
15 lbs. live rock
20 lbs. live sand
LIVESTOCK: 1 cleaner shrimp; Asst. snails, 1 emerald crab, Pierre the Cleaner Shrimp and acrobat extraordinnaire, 1 button polyp, 1 green star polyp, 1 red mushroom, 1 Xenia, 1 octopus coral, 1 torch, 1 frogspawn, 1 tree coral, 1 stag coral.
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Old 07-24-2007, 04:03 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Hi Linda, I dont use a heater, my MH's do all the " heating " that I need. sorry.
You have to finish with the cycling process for the nitrates to subside to a normal level. As for the sand, thats a personal preference.
As for the salt level, I dont use a salt mix b/c I get the salt water from the LFS. however, you can achieve the 0.0025 level by two ways; one, take out some water and when mixing the salt, add a little more salt. two, wait until the h2o evaporates for 2-4 days( depending on your lighting system) and check again the saly level.


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Old 07-24-2007, 04:15 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Make your heater a titanium one with an external thermostat. Glass heaters can break and short out and create soup, just ask Geekdafied he had this happen just a week ago.
Titanium Heating Tube
Electronic Heater Controller

Carib-Sea ARAG-ALIVE FIJI PINK will have all you need to kick start your coralline algae and help bacteria in your tank

As for salt, I use Instant Ocean and each person will use something different.


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Old 07-24-2007, 04:49 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Linda, your adding live sand during any time while the tank is up and running and you will have a change in pH and Alkalinity/


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Old 07-24-2007, 05:38 PM   #5 (permalink)
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yes, glass heater=bad, total loss after it boiled the water and then shattered and fried what was left.


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Old 07-24-2007, 07:04 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geekdafied View Post
yes, glass heater=bad, total loss after it boiled the water and then shattered and fried what was left.
Ugh, everyone remind me to get a metal heater...ugh


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Old 07-24-2007, 10:05 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Yes, titanium heater = goodness.

I don't have much sand in my tank at all. No more then 1/2 most places. Just to cover glass and give rock something to sit on.

For salt mix, have tried many, but plain old IO (instant ocean) works great and is probably the least expensive, which is important to me because I do frequent water changes.

Just be patient...those nitrates will come down.

& best way to increase SG is just use salt water mix for topoff water until it gets to where you want. --- nothing wrong with 1.023. Better to be at lower end of range during summer when tank can be expected to heat up, which has a drastic effect on SG.

Scott


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Old 07-25-2007, 05:43 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce View Post
Ugh, everyone remind me to get a metal heater...ugh
Get a metal heater


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