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Old 07-12-2008, 09:55 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Am I all GROWN UP / REEF READY?!

To say the least... I'm super excited...
Finally got my reef test kit... and the numbers show promising news.
I've had my tank going for about two months now ... currently I have a 72 gallon saltwater tank with 90lb LR, 2 inch bed of sand, 2 clowns, 1 tang, 1 yellow head goby, 1 flame angel, 1 cleaner shrimp and a clean up crew.

Water Chemistry is as follows:

NITRITE= 0
NITRATE= 10ppm (down from 100 4 weeks ago!!)
AMMONIA= 0
PH= 8.2
WATER TEMP= 78 (w/ chiller)
SALINITY= 1.021

KH= 11dKH (or 196.9 ppm KH)
PO4= 0ppm
CALCIUM= 540mg/L (ppm)

***************NOW FOR THE BIG QUESTION************

Am I ready for corals!? I've been dying to get my hands on an anemone for the clowns and some other soft stuff...

If yes, any suggestions on how to begin... (what to start with)
If no, where do my water parameters need to be and how do I get it there?

thanks 3 reef friends,
Ryan


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72 gallon bow front, aqua c urchin protein skimmer, wet/dry filtration, 90lbs lr, 70lb sand, 2 clown fish, yellow-head goby, yellow tang, flame angel, blue hippo, six-line wrasse, carpet anemone, cleaner shrimp, 4 mj1200's with red sea wavemaker, current sundial t5 ho lighting 216w, coralife 1/6 hp chiller
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Old 07-12-2008, 09:59 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I've heard that optimal SG for a reef tank is 1.025, but don't quote me on that.
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Old 07-12-2008, 10:13 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gythwulf View Post
I've heard that optimal SG for a reef tank is 1.025, but don't quote me on that.
I have heard the same. I am trying to get my tank reef-ready and that is where I am at....1.021. I am aiming for 1.025.


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75g HW: 20g L Sump, ETSS PS w/Mag9, Ext OF/Rio 2100 RTN, MJ AC 2K3 PH's(2600GPH ttl flow), 300W htr, Gnd Prb, Denitrator, UV, PCs: 2x65, 4x55 Fish: Ylw Tang, LM Blenny, Hmbg, Ylw-tail, Ylw Dmsls, Mrn Clown, LN Hwkfsh (sm), Coral Beauty, Mgnta Dttbk. Inverts: Snls/HCs, CBS, Sandstar, Condy Anen, Tube Worms. Frags: Frogspawn, Plsng Xenia. Corals: GSP, Zoas, Shrooms, Lobo Brain, Turbinaria. Other: 120# LR, 1-2" LS DOB 5/7/08

10g Mtd Pair Fls Perculas, HC/TS, 10# LR, 12lbs LS K-Nano PH AC-30


Last edited by pharmrjohn; 07-12-2008 at 10:13 PM. Reason: Poor sentence structure. Ouch.
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Old 07-12-2008, 10:40 PM   #4 (permalink)
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If you are using a refractometer or new hydrometer to measure salinity than aim for 1.025. Also your calcium is actually too high. Aim for 400-450. Do you have a magnesium test? If not it is an essential investment for a reef tank.

As far as reef ready, no reef tank is considered established until at least 6 months (sometimes one year depending on who you talk to). This doesn't mean that you can't have corals for a year, however it does mean that you need to research anything you want to put in your tank because there are quite a few fish and corals that need an established tank.

Unfortunately for you this means no anemone for a few months. (Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but they need established,i.e. mature, tanks) Try starting out with some mushrooms or zoas. If they do well then try something like green star polyps or xenia (both spread quickly).

Once again, as far as the anemone goes check back here in 4 months and see what the anemone experts recommend at that time period. Your clowns won't be the worst for having to wait a few more months for something they don't have now.

I'm glad to hear your tank is doing better, but on a side note research everything you put in your tank. I noticed that you mentioned a flame angel (also prefers an established tank). They have a reputation for being one of the worse pygmies when it comes to nipping corals. Not all of them do it but as far as ratio of individuals that do versus those that don't, theirs is higher.


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Old 07-12-2008, 10:42 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks for the advice...
sorry clowns!!!
Any suggestion on how to lower the calcium without affecting other parameters?
Also, if mag. tests are so important... why do you think it's not included in the API reef master test kit?
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Old 07-12-2008, 10:43 PM   #6 (permalink)
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yea, raise the SG a little bit. I'v heard 1.025 is optimal but I like mine around 1.023. No heavy breathing, unwanted algea and so on... Anything above 1.022 is good I think. Besides most LFS carry theirs around 1.025 so it's less of a drastic change to have yours as close as you can/like.


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Old 07-12-2008, 10:45 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I have always heard no on the anemonea until tank is at least a year old. Definately would not get one yet. Clownfish do not need one. Let tank get more established or else it will more then likely get angry and just move on you and die (trust me I know from experience)
Your salinity is a little low, best to be around 1.024 or so. But depending on how you test it, salinity is not always accurate. Hydrometers IMO are not accurate at all. I would either have someone with a refractometer test it, or honestly with a 75g, you really need to get one. Best purchase I made. I would never mix SW without a refractometer, and you will be mixing a lot of SW
I would say get salinity up a little more and you should be good to go on corals. I started out with things like zoos, polyps, mushrooms. Stay away from clams, acros, anenoneas right now. Leathers are also something I would stay away from. Xenia is something that depending on the type you get can grow really fast in your tank, and is fun to watch it pulse. I would only purchase a small piece of xenia however as it does grow fast. Also easy to frag. My clown actually hosted a xenia that I had, so I got to see the behavior without having to get an anemonea

I dont remember what type of lighting you have?

Others will hopefully chime in as I am just now hitting my year mark in the hobby. Good luck
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Old 07-12-2008, 10:52 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Any suggestion on how to lower the calcium without affecting other parameters?
Also, if mag. tests are so important... why do you think it's not included in the API reef master test kit?
Fist off, 2 ways on lowering calcium. Either letting the rock pull it from the water over a period of time (the speed at which this happens depends on the amount of rock in the tank) or by doing a water change (doesn't have to be big). What salt are you using and what are you dosing into the tank?

As to the mag tests. One of the most important tests in the reef hobby, it's not included for a variety of reasons. 1) It's more expensive than other tests. 2) I'm not sure API even makes a mag test (they might) 3)notice that there's a few things that 'reef master' test kit is missing: nitrate, ammonia,pH, etc. It's labeled a reef master test kit but you still need to have other tests besides what's in it. Don't get me wrong it is very good that you have it because you still need to test those things, but if you have a reef tank that's not all you want a test for.
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Old 07-12-2008, 10:56 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Great post schackmel and others... thanks!
My lighting is 216watts CURRENT USA SUNDIAL T5'S with 2 actinic blues.
It's roughly 3 watts per gallon... a bit under actually.

How much should I spend on a refractometer... I'm currently using a crappy, plastic hydrometer...

I'm looking for corals with color... anything come to mind at my level?
PS What's the best plan of attack to raise salinity to 1.025... from my current level.
for instance... do I add 3 cups of salt per 5 gallons instead of 2.5 as directed?

Ryan
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Old 07-12-2008, 10:58 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I actually bought both test kits... the saltwater by API and today picked up the reef master one to see if I can begin buying corals...
Both tests include nitrate... none contain magnesium... what's the best one and easiest to use... and where do you recommend getting it?

PS salt is from LFS (instant ocean)

Last edited by ryanwolf; 07-12-2008 at 11:00 PM. Reason: added information
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