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06-01-2008, 06:55 AM
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#1 (permalink)
| | Skunk Shrimp
Join Date: May 2008 Location: Baltimore, md
Posts: 278
| Air pump is it a good idea to have a airpump help put air back into the water? |
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06-01-2008, 06:58 AM
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#2 (permalink)
| | PICTURE POLICE
Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Miami, FL Age: 39
Posts: 5,049
| Nothing wrong with that, esp. if your fish are gasping for air. Luna _________ 9YR OLD 90G/55g custom sump/refug Mag18 Aquac 180skimmer 692w MH AC jr,yel&kole tang,midas&convict blenny,B&G chromies,Blk/yel fin chromie blackcap,nemo,neon goby,6line; Blastomussa Merleti,Acan ,BUBBLE,Torch,LTA, Acropora(2) Moon, assort zoas, yel& G star polyps, P&B ricordia, montiporas, cup&candy corals, xenias,B/G mush,flower ane(2), cherry red mussa, dusters,cleaning crew.. |
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06-01-2008, 07:22 AM
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#3 (permalink)
| | 3reef Sponsor
Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Va/Ct
Posts: 4,358
| I use a lagre Luft pump with 2 airlines into my sump . Why more do not apply thie I don't know .. _________ Some of the world's greatest feats were accomplished by people not smart enough to know they were impossible (Doug Larson) |
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06-01-2008, 09:59 AM
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#4 (permalink)
| | Gnarly Old Codfish
Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Silverdale, Washington Age: 59
Posts: 4,777
| Agree with tangster...
Simple, cheap insurance. One of easiest ways to get clearer water.
Would run in main tank, but salt creep becomes a real issue.
Also run in Nano... _________ AG "125," AquaC EV 180, 30 gal sump, "SCWD", 80 lbs LR, CoralSeaLife "Moonlite" Hood, PFO 250W HQI Mini-Pendant (SPS HQI 14000k bulb)
12 Gallon NanoCube - 24w stock PC 50/50 light "...nothing good ever happens fast in a reef tank, only bad things happen fast..."
- MIKE PALLETTA - (2008 Reef log) ("OmarD"/"Scott") |
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06-01-2008, 10:21 AM
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#5 (permalink)
| | Spaghetti Worm
Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: London, ON, Canada
Posts: 197
Karma: 134

| FWIW, many years ago during a gas exchange thread on RC, I took exception to the statement that aerating the tank water didn't greatly affect gas exchange.
I have 6 ft skimmers with 7" long, 2" square air stones with 7/8" diameter bores and there was no way anyone could convince me that I wasn't getting the best gas exchange with that volume of air.
I inquired as to what proof there was and was told to simply test the CO2 levels before and after using air line aeration, and comparing it with power head water movement.
I couldn't find a test kit anywhere so I ordered a LaMotte kit that cost an arm and a leg, which is typical of the hobby.
I then drained off 30 gallons and split it into 3 containers, one of which I aerated using a high volume air stone, and another aerated via a rigid air line with no stone. (due to another point brought up in the thread). The third container I used a power head to set the water surface in some turmoil.
Testing for CO2 was done before starting, and, at 1/2 hour intervals in each of the 3 containers.
Unfortunately, I don't have the figures available anymore, but there are probably similar proofs online somewhere.
Basically I found the powerhead reduced CO2 much faster than either of the air supplied containers did, and, the rigid container worked faster than the air stone container. (Before I began,I had tried to balance the air flow volume for the air supplied containers by letting the air displace the water in an inverted glass in a container of water, and timing how long it took.) In fact, the air containers never did catch up with the power head container in the hours I tested for. (I think it was four hours)
It was explained to me that the aeration was creating the turmoil at the surface, which allowed for the gas exchange and that the small airstone bubbles didn't cause as much turmoil as the larger bubbled rigid air line tube.
The power head did best because it was cause a greater turmoil at the surface than either of the air containers did.
Upon reflection, I then recalled that the turmoil variation was so, with the greatest being with the power head.
Unfortunately also, I have been unable to locate that thread by searching on RC.
If anyone can find it or find other facts similar I would be greatful for a link to them.
Thanks. |
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06-01-2008, 10:26 AM
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#6 (permalink)
| | Aiptasia Anemone
Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Weston, Florida Age: 29
Posts: 585
| Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawdogz is it a good idea to have a airpump help put air back into the water? | Yes, but put it in sump like Tangster and Omard said. if you put in main tank it causes micro-bubbles which rub the fish and cause them to lose some of their protective slime coat.
_________
75gal hex, 2-40w T12 48", odyssea 48" 4x65w PC's w/ lunars, 50lbs LR, 80lbs LS, gold banded maroon clown, dog faced puffer, juvenile blue angel, 2 dominoes, 1-4 stripe damsel, yellow watchman gobie, lawnmower blenny, mano, purple chromis, striped grouper, mexican turbo, astrea and red foot snails, striped, red and blue legged hermit crabs, coral banded shrimp, white and purple bubble coral(very little), red and green mushrooms, orange gorgonian, candycane
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Tanks, No Thanks. We Free Dive! |
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06-01-2008, 10:38 AM
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#7 (permalink)
| | Spaghetti Worm
Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: London, ON, Canada
Posts: 197
Karma: 134

| Perhaps you missed the point as I don't always find the right way to explain things.
For me, the point was that surface water movement was the effective tool for the water exchange, not the air supply that was added.
Turmoil at the waters surface be it tank or sump is what does the job and whatever is most efficient at causing that turmoil would in my opinion be the best choice to use.
Aeration does cause turmoil, but the smaller bubbles caused less. Personally I don't want anything adding more to the spray that is inherent to my sumps just due to the downflow of my 2" overflow pipes. |
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06-02-2008, 10:47 AM
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#8 (permalink)
| | Feather Duster
Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: warren michigan Age: 37
Posts: 212
Karma: 117
 
| very nice..very nice
lots of good info |
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