Can someone explain what surging is?

[wbodei]

Hello,
I'm new to this forum and just set up a 90 gallon All-Glass aquarium with a sump filter with one of those megaflow corner units.The water in the corner where the plumbing is fluctates up and down a few inches, accompanied by a loud whooshing sound that sounds like waves at the ocean. Is that normal? Is that, as per what I have read in some threads, called surging? It's a tad loud and annoying. When it's not 'surging', it seems nice and quiet and works fine. I'm not sure if I have set up something incorrectly, or of this is normal for drilled tanks with sump filters and a megaflow plumbing set up. Any ideas?
Thanks, Bill

[Matt Rogers]

Hi welcome to 3reef!

I recall a fix for this that was posted by 3reef Moderator Jason McKenzie.

I'll send a PM to have him post back.

I'll try to search for it too.

Thanks for joining!

[wbodei]

Thanks!

[Jason McKenzie]

Wbodei,
This is related to the amount of air allowed into the overflow tube. Are you using the stock All Glass overflow?

As shown here?

If this is the case you likely need to raise or lower the riser tube.

Give that a try and let me know

J

[wbodei]

Hi Jason,
Yes I do have an adjustable 'stock' All-Glass Over Flow tube, and a # 3 filter box. I can see huge bursts of air bubbles going into the acryllic box underneath that correspond to the raising and lowering of the water level in the overflow corner chamber. I have tried both raising and lowering this tube, but that does not seem to be clearing this issue. The fluctations did seem to lessen as I lowered the tube, but did not disapear altogether. The further I lowered it, the lower the water in the corner chamber goes, and vice versa, when I raise it. The other issue is there is a hole in the return pipe elbow before the black screw on double hose feeding back into the tank. Lowering the tube exaggerates the sound of the return water into the corner coming out of this hole so any advantage of lowering the tube is traded for a new water cascading sound. (Is that elbow supposed to have a hole there?) I'm concerned and don't know what to do now. The mega flow assembly came with no instructions btw, and barring my fresh water experience with standard over the back filters, I'm new to this.
Thanks, Bill

[inwall75]

Bill,

Your return should not have a hole in it. I would exchange wherever you purchased your aquarium if they have replacement parts or call AGA. 1-800-255-4527 (Actually, they usually want you to call them because most stores don't carry the replacement parts).

Are you sure your kit is that exact same one where the water enters the upside down drain pipe. I know their older model had problems like you're describing but I thought when they went to this drainpipe design, all of the sound stopped.

Here's the instructions

All-Glass Aquariums MegaFlow Overflow Accessory Kit

Check to make sure that all parts are included in the kit before you begin.

Parts List*
1 - 1" Bulkhead assembly (includes: bulkhead, washer, and nut)
1 - 1" Insert
1 - Adjustable drainpipe
1 - Air intake elbow
1 - 90° Elbow
1 - Strainer
1 - 3/4" Bulkhead assembly (includes: bulkhead, washer, and nut)
1 - 3/4" Insert
1 - Return pipe
1 - 3/4" Elbow
1 - Nozzle

*Additional items needed: PVC primer, PVC cement, and PVC pipe cutter.

Installation Instructions:

Wet the bulkhead seals. Insert "bulkheads with bulkhead seal" into the predrilled holes from the inside of the aquarium, for each hole. The seal must be placed between the bottom of the bulkhead top and the inner bottom glass. To ensure a proper seal, the inner bottom surface must be cleaned of any debris.


Fit "bulkhead nuts" to "bulkheads" from the underside of the aquarium. Hand-tighten until nut is properly secured. DO NOT over tighten. To reduce the risk of damaging the bulkhead assemblies or breaking the aquarium, the use of tools is not recommended.


Depending on the height of your aquarium, the "drain pipe" will need to be adjusted (DO NOT cut to length). To adjust your drainpipe, simply submerge pipe assembly in water. Once the pipe assembly is wet, adjust to correct length. The "return pipe" may also need to be sized. Cut return pipe to correct length.


For 110X, 150, and 210 aquariums: Return pipe length is 26-3/4" long (supplied length).


For 65, 90, 92 corner, 120, 155 bow, and 180 aquariums: Cut return pipe to 22-3/4" long.


For 54 corner, 72 bow, and 125 aquariums: Cut return pipe to 20-3/4" long.


For 55 and 75 aquariums: Cut return pipe to 18-3/4".



Screw the "nozzle" into the "3/4" elbow." Press fit the opposite side of the "elbow" to one end of the "return line." Press fit the remaining end of the "return pipe" into the "3/4" bulkhead." Already mounted in the aquarium. *NOTE: The small hole in the "3/4" elbow" is an anti-siphon feature in the even of a power outage and must remain open.


The drainpipe assembly is NOT to be permanently bonded together. This is for easy access and cleaning of the drainpipe components. Assemble the "strainer," the 90° "elbow," and the "air intake elbow" by snapping them together. The elbow assembly and the "drain pipe base" then get press fir to the "Adjustable drainpipe." The entire drain assembly then gets press fir into the "1" bulkhead" already mounted in the aquarium.


If hoses are going to be used to connect the filtration system, the inserts will be needed. If inserts are not needed, skip this step. If inserts are needed, apply PVC primer and cement to the 3/4" insert and insert the 3/4" bulkhead already mounted in aquarium. Repeat for the 1" insert.


The assembly and installation is now complete for the All-Glass Aquarium Overflow System.
Recommended Drain Pipe Adjustment

Remove cap. Cap removal will allow you to grip more area of inner pipe for adjustment.


Add a small amount of water between inner and outer pipe to act as a lubricant. Water will assist inner pipe movement.


To adjust, twist inner pipe clockwise band counterclockwise intermittently, while pulling. This should be a one-time adjustment for each tank height.


Replace Cap
NOTE: DO NOT add silicone-based products to assist in adjustment. It is important that the inner tube and the outer tube remain as tight as possible. Use water only as a lubricant.

[wbodei]

Hi Curt,
I looked over the docs I do have, and the directions you posted.

The 'hole' I am referring to in the return is in the 3/4" elbow. Then I see *NOTE: The small hole in the "3/4" elbow" is an anti-siphon feature in the even of a power outage and must remain open. So I understand why that is there now.

In regards to which overflow accessory kit I have, it is # 29251, which I assume is new, as there is a sticker on it that says now includes 'dual nozzle', and it was ordered from my local Pet's Plus distributor.

I also found a sheet titled recommended Drain Pipe Adjustment, and it says I need to remove the cap to grip more of the inner pipe for adjustment. I did not do this, I simply slid the whole assembly up and down. Perhaps this is a key step I am missing?

I think I need to keep tinkering with this drain pipe, as it does seem to me that an exceesive amount of air going into the bottom sump container is the cause of my problems. Any other suggestions?

Is simply sliding the whole asembly up or down while its all put together the same as unscrewing the cap? Is there an ideal distance from the top of the overflow chamber that this air intake elbow should be? Are there internal parts that need to be aligned up or down that I am overlooking? Should I kill the power on the filter while I am making the adjustments? So far I have tried it both ways with power on and power off.

Regards, Bill

[inwall75]

Originally Posted by wbodei

The 'hole' I am referring to in the return is in the 3/4" elbow. Then I see *NOTE: The small hole in the "3/4" elbow" is an anti-siphon feature in the even of a power outage and must remain open. So I understand why that is there now.

Gotcha...I misunderstood.

I also found a sheet titled recommended Drain Pipe Adjustment, and it says I need to remove the cap to grip more of the inner pipe for adjustment. I did not do this, I simply slid the whole assembly up and down. Perhaps this is a key step I am missing?

Hopefully. I had this on a 75g AGA and once I installed the newer type of overflow, my surging immediately ended. It sounds like I was lucky.

I think I need to keep tinkering with this drain pipe, as it does seem to me that an exceesive amount of air going into the bottom sump container is the cause of my problems. Any other suggestions?

Is simply sliding the whole asembly up or down while its all put together the same as unscrewing the cap? Is there an ideal distance from the top of the overflow chamber that this air intake elbow should be? Are there internal parts that need to be aligned up or down that I am overlooking? Should I kill the power on the filter while I am making the adjustments? So far I have tried it both ways with power on and power off.

Regards, Bill

I think you're right. Fiddle with it a bit and then call customer service tomorrow if you can't figure it out. I do know of one trick that might be useful. If you are using flexible hose to go to the sump. Put a couple twists or bends in it as opposed to dropping straight into the sump.

[wbodei]

I've already got one 360 degree loop in the hose, but I will continue to tinker and call AGA customer service as you suggested. I'll post any progress or lack of progress here in a day or two. Thanks to everyone so far who has replied! Great Forum guys!

[Jason McKenzie]

I believe We need to increase the air coming into the assembly The air hole at the very top of the drain. Is it as pictured just a hole or have they changed that?

J