Automatic Top-Offs

[GatorDrew]

Alright... so I'm building my new sump that's 23" tall (its a 37G for my 90G). I was all gong ho on getting it started... until I realized that it's going to be a PAIN to refill since it's so high. So, I immediately began thinking about a top-off system. Seem's like there's a couple...

Tunze Osmolator: $174

JBJ: $99

I'm thinking on both you could just throw on a MJ 1200. Right?

I then look for the best storage container... and BAM. Done.

Despite almost double the cost... I'm thinking that Tunze offers a better over all product.

Thoughts?

[Tangster]

Why not just put a flaot valve or float switch into the sump and let that do the job directly from your R/O unit ?

[GatorDrew]

I don't have an R/O unit... couple of reasons why: 1) live in an apartment and 2) Gainesville has some of the best water quality in the state (no chloramines, nitrates, nitrites, phosphates).

Being in an apartment (2nd floor) brings up the issue of what to do with waste water. I would also want to avoid messing with the copper pipes underneath my sink, so it would have to next to the washer... which is even a further stretch!

Something else did come to mind... does a "regular" RO unit (not RO/DI) produce not as much waste water? Something I'm gonna look into now...

[mm2002]

If your apartment is plumbed with copper, there's a potential problem right there. Also, I don't care how "clean" they say the city water is, I can almost promise you there are other things in it which are not desirable in an aquarium, and which you cannot test for. Just my two cents.

[Jason McKenzie]

I use the Tunze works amazing. It comes with a pump BTW.

They are such a simple design if I had to do it again I would likely do what Tangster suggested.
If you fill an empty salt bucket with water and place it higher than the sump you could just use a float valve and gravity. Sounds like your going to need a water storage anyway.

J

[GatorDrew]

Ok - my sump is 30" wide and the inside of my stand is 47" wide. So, that's how much space I have. (17"Wx13"Dx13"H). I really don't want to put something outside the stand for aesthetic reasons. So, having something "above" the sump just won't work in my case.

My LFS sells the JBJ system for $105. They then recommended an "Aqua Lifter" for $15. Not much more money that Marine Depot.

The Tunze... for $170 includes everything you essentially need... except for the bucket.

Hmmmm...

[aquaticKev]

Why not use a small water storage next to the Sump inside the unit. And use a small pump, and a float switch. The way you water level will always stay the same as long as you keep the storage tank full. If you want to get really clever, you could use a level warning sensor, to alert you when the storage tank is running low. Aquamedic do a pump an float switch for £45 ($90 ish)

If your feeling really smart (or lazy like me) you could have to storage tanks, two pumps with float switch's use one tank for the clean water and the second for waste water.

On my marine tank I set the waste water pump on a time 15mins per day at night, in that time it pumped out 1 litre of water and the fresh water starts replacing immediately as it detects water lose. I have a 300 litre tank so over a month I had done a 10% water change without touching a thing! Works really well, I think its better for the system to do very small very fequent water changes, plus the water changes are so small there is almost no risk of changes to the water setup PH,KH,GH, etc etc. I now have my fresh water fitted to the mains water supply via a WC float valve, so I don't even have to check the fresh supply!


The whole set up cost me just £100 but I made the tanks myself. (Im a plumber!!)

[GeejEx]

Originally Posted by aquaticKev

Why not use a small water storage next to the Sump inside the unit. And use a small pump, and a float switch. The way you water level will always stay the same as long as you keep the storage tank full. If you want to get really clever, you could use a level warning sensor, to alert you when the storage tank is running low. Aquamedic do a pump an float switch for £45 ($90 ish)

If your feeling really smart (or lazy like me) you could have to storage tanks, two pumps with float switch's use one tank for the clean water and the second for waste water.

On my marine tank I set the waste water pump on a time 15mins per day at night, in that time it pumped out 1 litre of water and the fresh water starts replacing immediately as it detects water lose. I have a 300 litre tank so over a month I had done a 10% water change without touching a thing! Works really well, I think its better for the system to do very small very fequent water changes, plus the water changes are so small there is almost no risk of changes to the water setup PH,KH,GH, etc etc. I now have my fresh water fitted to the mains water supply via a WC float valve, so I don't even have to check the fresh supply!


The whole set up cost me just £100 but I made the tanks myself. (Im a plumber!!)

Hey Kev, can you post some pix of your setup? I've been considering a similar arrangement for a "touchless" water change/sump system on a still to be designed tank.

[ReefSparky]

Your best bet is to get yourself an RO/DI unit. I'm in Florida too, and I don't care how wonderful the water supply is, it's still bound to contain phosphates and silicates, if not nitrates too. Nuisance algae will love you for it.

Plumb the RO/DI unit in your laundry room using a hose bib adapter (no piercing or cutting of copper tubes), and run water line to your aquarium. Use a float switch in your sump, and utilize a ASOV (like airwaterice.com manufactures). There you have the best of both worlds.

The RO/DI system is about $159. The float switch $12.99.
--Not having to manually fill your sump,
--Not worrying about salinity fluctuations,
--Having pristine topoff water,
--one more thing automated,
. . . . ... . .. ...priceless.

[Otty]

Originally Posted by GatorDrew

Gainesville has some of the best water quality in the state (no chloramines, nitrates, nitrites, phosphates)..

Sounds like a salesman had been speaking to you. You must have some bad test kits if you think city water is free of all that stuff. All the fluorides and stuff they put in city water, you are asking for some real trouble in a few months.

Originally Posted by ReefSparky

Your best bet is to get yourself an RO/DI unit. I'm in Florida too, and I don't care how wonderful the water supply is, it's still bound to contain phosphates and silicates, if not nitrates too. Nuisance algae will love you for it.

Amen...+2 on that!