DIY Flat Denitrator for 10 gal aquarium

[hermaneb]

My aquarium has long since cycled and has not required water changes (even for nitrate) as Quick Dip and Freshwater Master Test Kit give constant readings such as "0" Ammonia, "0" Nitrite, "20" Nitrate, "75" Hardness, "120" Alkalinity, "6.8" Ph @ 76 degrees temp. I do weekly add enough rainwater to replace water lost via evaporation. Advice I have garnered indicates Nitrate should be somewhere around 4ppm. So, I desire to DIY a 'flat" denitrator using some type of corrugated plastic such as Lexon or perhaps
coroplast. I have the inclineation, the time but the wherewithall is my problem. Would some type of acrylic double skinned sheeting be worth considering?

Any members input would be appreciated.

[Birdlady]

Hmm, sounds like you are doing an excellent job already! Have you considered adding live plants (if you don't already have them)? That might take care of the small amount of nitrates alone.

I really don't know about the materials you are speaking of so I will leave that for others

What fish are you keeping? (I am just nosey...)

[hermaneb]

I have five "mystery" snails, two Red Fire Dwarfs (2-1/4"), One Blue Gill Perch (3-3/4")
No live plants, I use clear glass beads as strata. I originally had a couple of potted plants purchased at Pets Mart. Perch kept "tearing" them up. So will try the denitrator approach at least for now.
Thanks for the "come back".

[Birdlady]

Cool! Keep us posted how you make out!

[Raul-7]

Nitrate should be at max of 50ppm in freshwater, but some fish may be sensitive to nitrates and need much lower levels. The normal recommended level is 5-10ppm.

Denitrators are a pain to use, not to mention the suplhur smell that comes out of it. I recommend fast growing aquatic plants (Hygrophila polysmera, Egeria densa, Hornwort) even better bog plants (Spathiphyllum tasson is great for this). They do a much better, hassle-free job of eliminating nitrates.

[geologeek]

hermaneb, if you still want to make the denitrator then it is very simple to constuct.

you need to get hold of some polycarbonate sheet (double walled stuff they use for greenhouses and the ilk), this can basically be any dimensions you want, like the back pane of the fishtank.....

if you have seen the polycarbonate before you will see that it is made up of squares...the idea is to cut a v shape into the bottom (leaving one for the outside) then into the top of the next, and bottom of the next and so on.....

if your following me you will see that when we put a hole into the side of the unit at the top of the outside wall, it will flow down and through the v, then up the next square, through the v and down the next square, through the v and so on.....

so once you have decided on the dimensions and cut your v's (except outer walls!) you can cut strips to be siliconed to the top and bottom of the unit.

next you want to put an inlet at the top of the unit, and an outlet (you can use ridgid airline) at the other end at the bottom.

the aim is to get about one drip a second out of the unit.....when the unit is full then you need to switch it off for about a week to alow the bacteria to colonise, then you can alow it to get back to the one drip.....test it in a bucket first to see how its doing with your test kit.....

any questions then just ask, but there are so many possibilities with these, some oxygenate the last few chambers, others make more compact units by cutting the last v of one strip in the side wall to allow water to pass into another strip...............

have fun anyhow! and if you need help with the idea then ask!

levi

[apollo'sowner]

I had a friend when I was back in OKC who had a 75 with some beautiful angels and plecs, lotches, etc. and lost every thing within a day after doing a water change with rain water.
He had been doing this for sometime, but I guess something came down that week with the rain. Good luck.