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01-28-2008, 02:52 PM
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#1 (permalink)
| | Astrea Snail
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 30
Karma: 21
 |  SIck Tang/Coppersafe?
I just added a blue hippo tang to my tank. I started to notice that my yellow tang had some little bumps on his skin and was paler probably because of the stress from the new fish. I also noticed a few nips on his tail also. I was worried this may be ick or some parasite. He eats fine and swims like normal every now and then hell rub up agianst a rock but thats about it. He looks somewhat better today than yesterday may be recovering. Just wanted to know if I should still use the coppersafe I bought or If i should wait and see if the fish naturally recovers??? Also has any one used coppersafe it says one tsp per 4 gallons I have a 90 gallon tank and would have to use 25tsp it sounds like alot.
thanks 
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90 gallon reef
20 gallon sump w/fuge
260 watt orbit lighting
-Marineland dual bio wheel filter,110 lbs live rock, 2 Clarkii clown fish, yellow tang,spotted tang, blue hippo tang, 2 red starfish. 10 gallon quarintine tank
Last edited by ianaco70 : 01-28-2008 at 02:58 PM.
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01-28-2008, 03:04 PM
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#2 (permalink)
| | Plankton
Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: San Diego, CA Age: 24
Posts: 18
Karma: 32
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Any other tank mates?
How are your water conditions?
I just got rid of an ich breakout! I hiked up the temp, and fed w/ garlic soak. I was afraid chemical treatment would mess up my anemone. I also noticed some nitrate increase, so bought some absorbers. I'd try to go all natural until last resort.
I bought some Kordon Ich Attack just in case, but never had to use it... I got VERY close though!!
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60g: Yellow Tang, Fire Shrimp, 6-Line Wrasse, Lawnmower Blenny, Blue Linckia, Emerald Crab, Purple Condy Anemone (Hosting), Paired Ocellaris Clowns (Rare-Took to Condy), Aggregate Anemones, Pulsating Xenia, Open Brain, Kenya Tree, Button Polyps, Star Polyps, Mushrooms
20g: Ruby Scat, Yellow-Tail Damsel, 4-Line Damsel | |
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01-28-2008, 03:11 PM
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#3 (permalink)
| | Astrea Snail
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 30
Karma: 21
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Thanks for the response. Other fish look fine. Water conditions are fine, I keep the heat at 80 degrees. I dont want to add chemicals either but dont want my fish to died. I have it on stand by incase the tang gets worse but dont know if I show be cautious and use it. Also I dont know how it will affect my macro algae. | |
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01-28-2008, 03:22 PM
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#4 (permalink)
| | Plankton
Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: San Diego, CA Age: 24
Posts: 18
Karma: 32
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Quote: |
He looks somewhat better today than yesterday may be recovering.
| Any recovery is good. If it IS Ich, just make sure the white spots stay away from the gills. I'd feed with garlic soaked food in order to boost the immune system. | |
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03-06-2008, 12:11 PM
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#5 (permalink)
| | Zoanthid
Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Baltimore, MD Age: 47
Posts: 1,125
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I just noticed that my Starry Blenny is flashing/scratching on the LR. I do not want to add any meds to the the tank. Any suggestions? _________ 72 gallon bowed 150lbs LR 60 lbs LS
2 Percs
1 Chevron Tang
Hippo Tang
Six Line Wrasse
Coral Banded Shrimp
Cleaner Shrimp
Starry Blenny
4 Lyretail Anthias
Long Polyp Toadstool
Montipora
Long Tentacle Anenome
Short tentacle plate
Pulsing Xenia
Green Star polyps
Frogspawn
29 gallon
2 Clown
1 Coral Beauty
1 Fairy Wrasse
24 FOWLR
Dwarf Lion
125 gallon African Cichlid Tank http://home.comcast.net/~pizzal/index.html 
"The more you learn, the more acutely aware you become of your ignorance" | |
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03-06-2008, 12:29 PM
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#6 (permalink)
| | Gnarly Old Codfish
Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Silverdale, Washington Age: 58
Posts: 4,611
 
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Definetly NO MEDS.
Fish may be stressed for some reason.
I would do couple of back to back water changes.
Get a skunk cleaner shrimp.
Keep eye on. _________ AG "125," AquaC EV 180, 30 gal sump, "SCWD", 80 lbs LR, CoralSeaLife "Moonlite" Hood, PFO 250W HQI Mini-Pendant (SPS HQI 14000k bulb)
12 Gallon NanoCube - 24w stock PC 50/50 light "...nothing good ever happens fast in a reef tank, only bad things happen fast..."
- MIKE PALLETTA - (2008 Reef log) ("OmarD"/"Scott") | 
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03-06-2008, 12:36 PM
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#7 (permalink)
| | 3reef Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Wethersfield, CT Age: 38
Posts: 5,946
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BaxterS80  I just noticed that my Starry Blenny is flashing/scratching on the LR. I do not want to add any meds to the the tank. Any suggestions? | Could just be that it's got an itch.  Leave it alone unless you notice abrasions and or "dots" on it. I don't know what water changes would accomplish but I wouldn't do any. | |
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03-06-2008, 12:36 PM
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#8 (permalink)
| | Clown Trigger
Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Tatamy, PA Age: 15
Posts: 2,033
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Don not ever add copper or meds to display tank! will make tank and rock unsafe for inverts. Meaning snails, shrimp, and others will perish in short time! _________  | |
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03-06-2008, 01:27 PM
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#9 (permalink)
| | Sea Dragon
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 532
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If the fish are in your 24, take them out, put them in a quarantine tanks and treat them. only problem with this is when you return them to the tank there is a good Chance that there will be another outbreak.
Some say you should wait a few weeks before returning them to allow for the ICH cycle to complete. Then you should be able to safely return them with out fear of any recurrences.
Basically this is how the Ich cycle goes, a free swimming "tomite" locates a host fish, and attaches itself to it's host. In this stage (the attachment stage) the protozoan is called a trophont. It burrows into the host, eating it's insides. In time the trophont fattens up and prepares to reproduce. It makes a white 'cyst' (which is the spot you see on your fish), called a tomont, in which many tomites begin to develop. This tomont may 'hatch' either on the fish, or detach to fall to the substrate and there release the little tomites.
If there are no fish in the tank theoretically there is no food and all the little tomites die and are no more. I have never put this in practice but it seems logical to me...
Here is a really great ICH article.
Hope it helps a little bit.
_________
I just got lost in thought. It was unfamiliar territory.--Unknown
Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines.--Unknown
Last edited by gazog : 03-06-2008 at 01:35 PM.
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03-06-2008, 10:30 PM
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#10 (permalink)
| | Gnarly Old Codfish
Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Silverdale, Washington Age: 58
Posts: 4,611
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gazog If the fish are in your 24, take them out, put them in a quarantine tanks and treat them. only problem with this is when you return them to the tank there is a good Chance that there will be another outbreak.
Some say you should wait a few weeks before returning them to allow for the ICH cycle to complete. Then you should be able to safely return them with out fear of any recurrences.
Basically this is how the Ich cycle goes, a free swimming "tomite" locates a host fish, and attaches itself to it's host. In this stage (the attachment stage) the protozoan is called a trophont. It burrows into the host, eating it's insides. In time the trophont fattens up and prepares to reproduce. It makes a white 'cyst' (which is the spot you see on your fish), called a tomont, in which many tomites begin to develop. This tomont may 'hatch' either on the fish, or detach to fall to the substrate and there release the little tomites.
If there are no fish in the tank theoretically there is no food and all the little tomites die and are no more. I have never put this in practice but it seems logical to me...
Here is a really great ICH article.
Hope it helps a little bit. |
Great "ICK" link gazog.
Am Adding to my favorite "ICK" related links... ICK (Cryptocaryon irritans)
Marine "Ich" - ATJ's Marine Aquarium Site (Link provided by "gazog" - 3Reef)
Cryptocaryon irritans, Part One of Five - By Terry Bartelme
A Discussion of the Parasite and Treatment Options Part I, By Steven Pro
Marine Ick - Treatment Options Available Part II - Steven Pro
How to Identify & Prevent Saltwater Ich - LiveAqauria.com
Saltwater Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans) - Drs. Foster and Smith
Marine Ich, Cryptocaryoniasis - Webmedia.com
More information on White spot Disease - Fishbase.org
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