ball valve on return pump?

I just installed a ball valve on my return pump to dial it back because my overflow was gurgling and flushing.. It has solved this problem but seems to putting to much stress of the pump. I can hear the strain on the pump as it gets louder as I turn the ball valve adjustement.
Is it possible to use a 3 way ball valve so the excess water is returned back into the sump? Would this method keep the flow balanced? Like it wouldn't overflow the sump or tank by throwing anythin out of whack would it?
Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks guys

 

If your OF is gurgling and flushing it sounds like it is pulling a siphon. Make sure your hole for air is big enough on the standpipe and this won't happen. Pumps are fine to dial back, just don't restrict the incoming water.

 

You could install a Tee on the line back up into the sump then put the same ball valve on that line into the sump to restrict that flow that would reduce the load on the pump.

Meaning, the tee would divert some of the flow back into the sump....and you restrict that flow to adjust what goes into the DT....

But....the pump should be fine w/o it.

 

The hole in my standpipe is already like 6mm which is like 1/4inch.. Does it need to be bigger?
I was thinking about 3 way ball valve because the pump gets really loud when I restrict it, to stop the gurglin and flushing I'm turning the ball valve about a quarter turn but the pump gets really loud when I do this. When I've got it restricted the gurgling and flushing is dead quite but I get a popping kinds noise out of the hole in the standpipe.
Would this pressure have anythin to do with the hard PVC pipe going from the bulkhead to my sump is submerged about 4 inches underwater.. I read it's only meant to be 1-2inches?

 

Vancop have you got a pic of what you mean with the tee, sounds a bit hard to understand of picture cos i'm not familiar with this stuff.. I would like to restrict flow without putting extra strain on my pump simply because it gets overely loud when I restrict it with a straight ball valve

 

Take the cap off the standpipe and if it quits then it's the hole if not then it is something else.

 

Not good at photos srry.....picture this ....you was asking it you provide a bypass back to relieve the pressure on the pump.....you already have a ball valve installed on the main return line .....you can remove the ball valve ....and place a Tee in its place ....then add some tubing or pipe which ever you are using back into the sum and install the ball valve on that line .... turn the pump back on...and the water will flow both ways....up the line to the DT and back into the sump....then turn the ball valve to restrict the flow back into the sump....this will cause more water ( volume ) to flow back into the DT.....and some back into the sump with alot less pressure on the pump.....BUT can cause airbubbles ....so a media sock would be in order .....which can cause other issues if you don't keep them clean.

Maybe someone who can draw the picture and insert it and it will make more sence to you. All you have to have is a TEE...nothing else to purchase except a littel more pipe/tube...like 12" maybe.

What brand and size pump are you currently using ?? and how old is it ??

I would do what Otty is saying first ......could be that will solve the problem with no modifications ......start with the easy and small stuff first.

 

here... lol

 

depending on your pump i thought most were centrifugal magnetic and would not be stressed from a ball valve but you can easily T off your return line and divert some of the flow back to the sump/fuge

 

vancop is stating that instead of "balling" it back and creating back pressure on your pump... let it flow and put the ball "off" that return to relieve a little pressure. The excess water would just go back into your sump.
Not bad for a quick draw... lol (karma.. hint hint)