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Old 02-26-2008, 10:32 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default RODI suggestions?

OK guys, I've got a challenge for you. I understand what an RODI unit does, it purifies your water and that's a good thing. Can someone please explain to me how to decide which unit I need. Colorful pics and small words would help. I'm finally in a position to buy one and want to make the best choice. How many gallons per day do I need, how many stages, etc, etc. My wife wants to be able to have drinking water from it, I want it for my 110 gallon tank. Right now the water we drink goes through a filter in the fridge. I was looking at the dual home reef system advertised by Fire, Water, Ice - a 3reef sponsor, but then I saw the Typhon systems they have. I'm now confused and am looking for suggestions. You guys have always given great advice. Thanks in advance.


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110 gallon acrylic with compact flourescent/actinic
55 gallon for sump/fuge
about 120 lbs of live rock (more to come)
ssb in tank, dsb in fuge
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Old 02-26-2008, 10:34 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Sorry about screwing up the name of the 3reef sponsor, it's actually Air, Water, Ice. I had a duh moment.
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Old 02-27-2008, 06:47 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Just purchased one. I bought mine on eBay, 100GPD unit for 61.99+shipping.
It's a 5-stage unit with a single DI filter.


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Tank: 75g glass, AquaC Remora, Eheim Ecco Canister filter, Odyssea (2x250W MH, 4x65W actinics, 6 LEDs), 80lbs of live rock
Critters: 2 false percula clowns, blue damsel, lawnmower blenny, squirrel fish, 2 anthias, flame hawkfish, copper banded butterfly, coral banded shrimp, cleaner shrimp, fighting conch, condy anemone, and lots of misc snails
Corals: Green stripe mushrooms, blue mushrooms, candy cane, frogspawn, Green Zoanthids, star polyps, acropora, monipora


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Old 02-27-2008, 06:59 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I think it all depends on a number of factors like, what is your evaporation rate, is it going to be hooked up to a ATO system, are you going to use it as a fresh water replacement(evaporation) or as both, fresh and salt mixes?


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Old 02-27-2008, 09:39 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I'm losing about 5 gallons per week from evaporation. What's an ATO? I'll use it to replace evap'd water as well as to mix change water. I need about 10 gallons a week for water changes and replacement. Thanks
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Old 02-27-2008, 10:11 AM   #6 (permalink)
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ATO= automatic top off system
together with a float
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Old 02-27-2008, 10:21 AM   #7 (permalink)
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To answer your 1st Q, if I where in your shoes, I would get a 50-75 gpd R/O unit. My ER(evaporation rate) is about the same as yours, about 5gals per week. I have a 13gpd R/O system and thats enough for my 120g system(IMO). I have read that the slower the GPD the better.
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Old 02-27-2008, 11:14 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks lunatik. That answers that question. So my understanding then is to place a purified water line into some type of holding tank which has an ATO in it. The holding tank stays full without overflowing and I use that water for changes and top off. As far as plumbing goes, does the purified water line also have a "T" in it so it runs to the fridge (for the ice maker and water) supplying both the fridge and holding tank?
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Old 02-27-2008, 11:29 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I have also read that you shouldnt drink to much of the water that comes out of the R/O system b/c it removes all the minerals that your body needs. In other words, dead water. If you take notice of any refrig. that has a filter for the water, it only has one filter and I think its the carbon filter. The R/O with DI units have like 5-6 stages of filtering. Im not crazy about those ATO systems only b/c I've heard stories about the float switch going bad and it kept on pumping water to the DT, flooding the floor with water, Lowering the SG in the tank and killing almost everything. Not to mention, I dont have the space for the holding tank. I always keep 10gals of R/O water on hand in (2) 5gal red containers. I'm assuming you could attach a T so one of the lines can go to the fridge. If you do this, you might need a bigger GPD unit to accommodate both the tank and the fridge.
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Old 02-27-2008, 01:32 PM   #10 (permalink)
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OK, thanks again.
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