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12-18-2007, 04:21 AM
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#1 (permalink)
| | Plankton
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 3
Karma: 1
 |  Replacing W/D Bio Balls W/ LR
Heard/read all about the side effects of bio ball in W/Ds. I would like to replace them (gradually) with cured LR. I do not yet have an issue with high nitrates? What do you think? Also, W/D is under the display tank, what kind of light will I need and for how many hours/day?
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65 gal, Coralife Aqualight PC 10K, 4 39W TEK T5 HO, W/D ProClear 150 w/skimmer sump/fuge, 2 Maxi-jet 900 w/ booster kit, Quiet One 3000, 60 lbs LR, pair ocellaris clowns, sailfin tang, dottyback, foxface | 
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12-18-2007, 05:47 AM
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#2 (permalink)
| | Ritteri Anemone
Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Naperville IL Age: 29
Posts: 619
 
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You could gradually swap out the bio balls with the live rock so that some of the organisms come over from the bio balls to the live rock. Try to keep the pieces small so that is more surface area than a few larger pieces. As far as lighting, many people like to keep the lighting on a reverse cycle of the main tank as it will help keep the PH stable.
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180 Gal Reef, AquaC EV-400, 3 MH Aquamedic Oceanlight HQI's 250w 20k. Neptune AquaController III, AquaLogic Trimline Cyclone 1/3hp skimmer, 2 x hydor #4's, 2 x mj1200's modded, 40 gal fuge. | |
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12-18-2007, 06:51 AM
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#3 (permalink)
| | Feather Star
Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Groningen, The Netherlands Age: 25
Posts: 756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jms65gal  Heard/read all about the side effects of bio ball in W/Ds. I would like to replace them (gradually) with cured LR. I do not yet have an issue with high nitrates? What do you think? Also, W/D is under the display tank, what kind of light will I need and for how many hours/day? | Hmm... Interesting! Just my 0.02$, LR is great, however there are filter media with way better active surface/volume ratios: polished glass beads. Your issue with nitrate buildup could be resolved using considerably cheap DIY fuge and/or DIY coil denitrator. Moreover, microbiological nitrate reduction is totally anaerobic process, that requires as slow as possible water flow.
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12-18-2007, 02:52 PM
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#4 (permalink)
| | Plankton
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 3
Karma: 1
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Plan to convert W/D into a refuigium as my next step.
I will end up with around a 8-10 gallon one, what flow rate is adequate, i.e. can I route the entire return water flow thru it as long as I slow things down with a few baffles or do I need to bypass the majority into the return sump?
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12-26-2007, 05:21 PM
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#5 (permalink)
| | Astrea Snail
Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: TITUSVILLE, FL Age: 31
Posts: 50
Karma: 60
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how r u going to stop up the bottom of the w/d so the return side doesnt overflow _________ 55g ROOM DIVIDER TANK(PENINSULA)2-250W HALIDE 4-96W ACTINIC REEF TANK/W YELLOW TANG, SEBAE CLOWN, 4 STRIPE DAMSEL, BLACK SPOT DAMSEL 2 EMERIL CRAB, VARIOUS SNAILS, ORANGE ZO"s ROCK ANEMONE, CARPET ANEMONE, PRO CLEAR 75 BUILT IN SKIMMER, KORALIA 2 POWEREHEAD | |
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12-26-2007, 08:13 PM
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#6 (permalink)
| | Giant Squid
Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Meriden, Connecticut Age: 44
Posts: 3,949
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To be honest with you, if you place live rock in your sump/refugium, you do not need to have lighting! Lighting will not be of much help to you unless you plan on housing macroalgae(caulerpa) to enable photosynthesis to take place. _________ 125gal.w/Mag9.5 return(dual megaflow)>Mag7 pump Aqua Cev180skimmer.Wave2k Hamilton Reefstar(2)250watthqi(mh)pend.a Yellow, Naso Tang Red Lip Blenny Percula Clown Demoiselles Niger Trigger F. Wrasses Ceriantharia Orn.Shrimp and Stars Hermits Queen Conch asst. snails> Stars Zoos shrooms Montipora Brains Gorgonians Favia Turbinaria(large+small polyp) Acropora Xenia Tridacna (CroceaMaximaSquamosa) Leathers <35+75gal.reef tank as well> 
"IF THE PHONE DOESN'T RING...IT'S ME"  jb  | |
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