Just added a Grounding Probe...good idea?

jasond56 · 11-30-2006, 11:42 PM

I've just added a Rid-Volt Aquarium Grounding Probe by MORE Productions. Is this a good idea? I've read quite a few posts on 3Reef and it does seem like a wise decision. My question - how can I tell if it's working? I submersed it in my sump, plugged it in...and nothing. I guess I wouldn't see anything, would I? Is there something to watch for to ensure it's working?

Jason

Tangster · 12-01-2006, 04:58 AM

I passed my electrical Journeyman's test in 1970 and then the Masters test in 1972 and I grounded all of my tanks and keep them grounded as-well as Home is totally grounded and in after 35+ yrs of keeping mostly tangs I have never had a single case of lateral lines disease in a single fish. I think you did the right and correct thing.. Contrary to what many aquarium experts say LOL I bet they all have their living spaces grounded (: Best 10.00 maybe 15.00 you'll ever spend.

turbo4603 · 12-01-2006, 06:23 AM

Good job jason, you know how it goes, better safe than sorry!!

Deano · 12-01-2006, 07:07 AM

I learned the hard way!
Buy a voltage meter at home depot or any where ($20). Place the black probe of the voltage meter in the larger hole of an outlet usually on the left and then place the red probe in the fish tank. If your tank is grounded it will read 0.

Tangster · 12-01-2006, 08:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Deano

I learned the hard way!
Buy a voltage meter at home depot or any where ($20). Place the black probe of the voltage meter in the larger hole of the outlet usually on the left and then place the red probe in the fish tank. If your tank is grounded it will read 0.

Not necessarily .. I had a friend who used this method and that has to show a path to ground. You test on the plate screw.. See is a receptacle is properly grounded its that screw will also be a path to ground. What he had was no ground lug on a receptacle and he tested using this method you posted and after a few times trying to keep his tank alive I went there and ran a dedicated line then when i removed his old Receptacle it was not grounded.. old Romex with no ground shield connected to the receptacle. All Ground probe plugs either used the third spade or a butt lug spade to screw to that plate screw. Its more then I can explain or describe here but sometimes you just have to take a persons word for it.. And also who ever wired the circuit may have been a Bob Vila type jack leg expert and have the polarity reversed and he/she may be probing a load/ hot leg and not the line/ground leg..

grubbsj · 12-01-2006, 09:23 AM

I put the grounding probe in the main tank, vs. the sump. Apart from an 'ugly' wire in the main tank (which there are already a few of those for the power heads any way) does it make any difference?

Deano · 12-01-2006, 10:03 AM

The neutral line and the Ground line both are connected in the junction box. So you would still be able to check and see if there is current in the tank.
I also had current in my tank with the ground probe in place untill I realized that the ground line in the receptcle wasn't connected in the junction box. Daahhh!!!
If I would of tested on the plate screw it would of showed me then that the ground to the recptcle wasnt connected?
The ground wire in the sump or the tank shouldn't make a difference?

Tangster · 12-01-2006, 10:30 AM

I totally understand that they both are connect to the same buss bar in the panel box. But to assume that the wiring with in the receptacle is correct ? I have seen many wire them back wards Rather then assume they are correct with a tester touch that plate screw with a probe on the meter and then insert the other probe tip into the outlet with the load line you'll get 120 V with the leg you'll get nothing then you know its correct and that the whole thing is properly wired and grounded If not then it needs a fix'in (: But one never know whats what when you can't see or smell the elemet we are dealing with I have seen a common leg up on the pole wear and go to ground giving 240 to a few circuits that share that common buss bar also It happens .. see a panle box is in two halfs to make a whole and depending on what side of the main bars that breaker or fuse is legged onto makes a lot of difference.

Tangster · 12-01-2006, 10:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by grubbsj

I put the grounding probe in the main tank, vs. the sump. Apart from an 'ugly' wire in the main tank (which there are already a few of those for the power heads any way) does it make any difference?

I'd put it into the main tank.. That way if a pump itself should fail you will still have a path to ground for the main tank. But now the sump is fine also as long as the two are connected via. the water in the lines from the sump to the tank all you need is just the tip of the probe to be in contact with the water depth makes no difference If you have a HOB over flow that hold water when the pump is off then thats a good place . also just as long as there is a conduit between the probe tip and the main tank all the time with out pimps running

jasond56 · 12-01-2006, 11:53 AM

That's a good idea Tangster - in the overflow box.
The way the prob is fashioned is like this: it has a three prong plug, but only the rounded prong is metal. The other two are plastic. Then, hanging right off of the plug itself, there's a wire with an eyelett attached to it. From what I understand, this eyelett is to be attached to the wall plate covering the outlett IF I could not plug in the three-pronged plug. SO, right now I have it plugged into a three pronged powerstrip and the wire/eyelett just hanging there. I believe this should be fine.
Anything I should be looking for to ensure it's working. Fish/snail/invert behavior or anything?