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Old 04-12-2006, 06:41 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default PVC pipes leaking

The joints on the PVC pipes is leaking (only the elbow, everything else is fine). I collect about 3 cup a day. Can I use teflon tape on the outside of the pipes were the joints come together then apply the PVC cement over it?


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Old 04-12-2006, 10:22 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Did you use the purple primer 1st?


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Old 04-12-2006, 10:32 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I'm with Jafo. Use primer and cement.

Can you shut everything down and remove the elbow to clue it?


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Old 04-12-2006, 11:43 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Oh my god, brings back memories. I had a leak like that, didn't do it right the first time. I had to tear down the filtration for some hours. Definetly use cement and use plenty of teflon for threaded PVC.


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Old 04-12-2006, 01:45 PM   #5 (permalink)
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No, I didn't use the purple primer first. Since the leak is slow, can I prime the outside and them add a sealer?
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Old 04-12-2006, 02:15 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Can I use silicone?
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Old 04-12-2006, 02:17 PM   #7 (permalink)
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i don't think that will work. you would have to cut the leak out and start over .use the primer if you don't like the purple, they make clear primer too.
i primer and glue the male and female ends. and twist them back and forth when putting them together. you should then have no leaks. hope that helps you out. mark
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Old 04-12-2006, 05:09 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reef Lover
Can I use silicone?
I don't know that it will work in all cases, but I suggested it to a friend of mine. He had microbubbles in his return line. There was nothing in the sump. We tracked it down to the input of his return pump (external), he had used regular teflon tape instead of the thicker tape especially for PVC and it was aspirating air. Coated joint at the input of the pump with silicone and no more bubbles.

Having said that here's the difference. His was an air leak INTO the pump so the silcone tended to suck in and stick. Yours is a leak OUT of a joint and so this may not work.

If I were trying it here is how I would proceed. Don't put teflon tape over the leak area, that will definitly not work.

1. Shut down your circulation.
2. Clean the leaky area with fresh water to get any salt creep off.
3. Dry it as best you can.
4. Coat the entire joint with a bead of silicone (the leak may be working it's way around the joint by capilary action so where you see it may not be where it really is.
5. Here's where I get cute. Get a balloon big enough to to go all around the joint after it is split down the middle and wrap it tightly around the joint. then put duct tape, electrical tape, rubber electirical tape works best.

6. You can now turn your circulation back on.

Leave the tape on for at least 24 hours. (permanently if you don't mind the look. The baloon acts like a bandage to hold the silicone in place against the pressure while it cures.

This does work! I used to use it on moderate pressure lines (about 10 PSI) in a production evironment where we could not afford to shut down without losing expensive product.

Mike


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Old 04-12-2006, 05:26 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I was thinking about using Seal Plus, it's a kitchen & Bathroom adhesive caulk. It says watertight seal on it and it fights the growth of bacteria. Should I try it?
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Old 04-12-2006, 05:37 PM   #10 (permalink)
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You will not be able to seal a current leak by putting crap on top of it. In order to successfully stop the seal, you have to tear down the problem area and re-seal from the center of the problem. Trust me, it will save you time and will save you a big headache and a mess by trying to solve it the cheesy way.
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