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Old 01-11-2008, 11:20 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Additional Info On Ick (Cryptocaryon irritans)





News from the Warfront with Cryptocaryon irritans (Part 1 of 5) by Terry Bartelme

Saltwater Ich and Garlic - Aquarium Fish Diseases Ick, By: Terry D. Bartelme

Aquarium.Net Feb 97 Diseases in Fish, By Shawn Prescot

Marine Ick Part I, Steven Pro

Marine Ick, Part II, Steven Pro

Symptoms of Stress & Disease

An Old Cure for an Old Disease (Fishlore.com)

Freshwater Ich, White Spot Disease, By Bob Fenner

Protozoan parasites. (Skeptical Aquarist)

How to Identify & Prevent Saltwater Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans) (Liveaquari.com)


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AG "125," AquaC EV 180, 30 gal sump, "SCWD", 80 lbs LR, CoralSeaLife "Moonlite" Hood, PFO 250W HQI Mini-Pendant (SPS HQI 14000k bulb)
12 Gallon NanoCube - 24w stock PC 50/50 light
"...nothing good ever happens fast in a reef tank, only bad things happen fast..."
- MIKE PALLETTA -
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Old 01-11-2008, 09:50 PM   #12 (permalink)
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raising the temp helps too--au natural


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90 Gal "Reefish" Tank
30 Gal Sump
135 EuroReef Skimmer
50lbs Various Live Rock-Fiji, Tonga, Ect
Assorted Mushrooms (orange spotted)
Assorted Coral (star polyps angels love to snack on)
FISH--
Emperor Angel (just starting to change), Red Sea Sailfin, Banded Jawfish (BIG eater), Flame Angel, Royal Gramma, Eilbis Angel
CLEAN UP CREW--
Blood Shrimp, Cleaner Shrimp, Purple Spine Sea Urchin, Margarita Snails, Cat's Eye Snails, Tequila Snails, Emerald Crabs,
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Old 01-22-2008, 06:30 AM   #13 (permalink)
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thanks guys all is doing well, i used kick-ick along with some of the things you suggested and two weeks later all is goodd, when can i start to stock again, i was looking at getting some tangs, anemones but not sure how long to wait?? just got my new lighting so i do want to try an anemone. all test are normal.


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72galBF, Fluval 405,Berlin Skimmer,260w Orbit Extreme,Wet/Dry Filter,50lbs lr, 90lbs ls,2-Percula Clowns,3-4stripe damsels,1-Ylw Tg,1-Hippo Tg,Diamond Goby,9-turbo,6-Scarlet Hermits,10-Margarita Snails,15-Rd Lg Hermits.
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Old 01-22-2008, 06:54 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Reducing the salinity in the tank should kill ick, it has been suggested that the salt level should be as low as 1.009, what it actually does is reduce the ick hatch time and when they do hatch the low salt level should kill them before they can host a fish. If you followed the salinity route then it would have to be in a quarintine tank, especially if you have any live rock or corals in your tank. Generally it can take 6 weeks or more to be sure that the ick has been killed off in your quarintine tank as well as your main display.

If it's any assurance my tangs had an ick outbreak a while back. I decided (well Tangster advised me!) to add vitamin supplements, I stuck with this for about a month and the tangs have been fine ever since! I'm guessing but I think it was about 3 months ago, maybe longer.


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80gal with live rock (35kg/70lbs), 30gal sump, refugium with live rock, chaeto and DSB, Bullet-1 skimmer, Fluidized Reactor, T5 lighting (6 tubes), 4 x Koralia 3's.
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Old 01-23-2008, 09:29 AM   #15 (permalink)
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how long do you think i need to wait after i did th 14day treatment of kick-ick till i can add fish or invert like an Long Tentacle Anemone or power blue tang??
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Old 01-23-2008, 06:32 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I wouldnt add any type of blue tang to that tank! Your ich is just under control and dormant. Adding a blue tang will just reactivate it. The only effective way to kill the ich is copper and removing the fish for 8-12 weeks. I battled ich for 1 1/2 yrs. I had to copper my fish only tank twice. I even took the tank apart, QT the fish in a 75g and treated then with copper, then broke down the tank and washed the substrate and tank in FW, and put the live rock in a trash bin in my garage with a water pump for 12 weeks. The ich still came back so I coppered the whole tank, live rock and all with sea chems cupramine. I removed the copper with copper resin and to this day my copper levels are 0.
This of course will not work on a reef tank!

In the future, QT all your fish for 2-3 weeks and consider FW dips and low dose copper for any new fish. Jungle labs also makes a chlorine analog tablet that you can use on your QT fish. I've used it without any problems. I bellieve its called LifeGuard. There is a FW and SW tablet.


_________

75g reef with Nova Extreme 8 bulb HO T-5 lighting, refuge, Remora skimmer, DSB, Seio powerheads, Acro's, LPS corals, assorted zoo's & mushrooms, Yellow Tang, Maroon Clown, Blue Cleaner Goby , Cleaner, Fire and Sexy Shrimp, Coco Worm, T.Crocea Clam, Derasa Clam

120g FOWLR, 260w Orbit power compact lights, Remora Pro skimmer, 30g DIY Sump/Refuge, DSB,Seio Power heads, Powder Blue Tang, Purple Tang, Flag Fin Angel, False Eye Puffer, Copperbanded Butterfly and a Moorish Idol
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Old 01-23-2008, 06:39 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I was always under the understanding that ich is always present in our tanks and on the fish. The only reason why it doesnt come out is b/c the fish are healthy. A healthy fish means they have that slimey film on their skin that protects it from ich.


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9YR OLD 90G/55g custom sump/refug Mag18 Aquac 180skimmer 692w MH AC jr,yel&kole tang,midas&convict blenny,B&G chromies,Blk/yel fin chromie blackcap,nemo,neon goby,6line; Blastomussa Merleti,Acan ,BUBBLE,Torch,LTA, Acropora(2) Moon, assort zoas, yel& G star polyps, P&B ricordia, montiporas, cup&candy corals, xenias,B/G mush,flower ane(2), cherry red mussa, dusters,cleaning crew..
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Old 01-26-2008, 12:48 PM   #18 (permalink)
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What i would do whenever i got ich was i would start feeding them more but not so much at a time where there is food everywhere but a little at a time for about 5 minits also i would by the all natural ich treatment from pets mart treat my tank for a week then do a 10 % water change evry day this has allways worked for me evry time ive gotten ich
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