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Old 10-14-2007, 05:12 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Heres a rough sketch. If you find that water is not entering the t you might want to change it into a y, since water is going to want to take the easiest path and that would be straight up. You should add a union after the pump just in case you want to take thing apart later. Hope this helps


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90 gallon tank with center overflows, 44 gallon custom sump/fuge, Tek T5 retrofit 4x54 bulbs, Reef Octopus nw200 protein skimmer, Iwaki WMD40RLXT return pump (changed to panworld 100pxx),Knop c ca reactor, PA light house controller.


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Old 10-14-2007, 05:58 PM   #22 (permalink)
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IBM.... that's exactly like I have mine plumbed, but I don't have the valve that is directly next to the pump. This valve should only be closed when the pump is not running. I have a hole in the line next to the tank to prevent siphon back, so I didn't think this valve was needed.
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Old 10-14-2007, 06:10 PM   #23 (permalink)
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That valve inline with the pump is to throttle down the gph of the pump or when you take the pump off (mainly for throttling the gph down but i have one on mine since its an external pump). I have holes in my plumbing as well to prevent siphoning but make sure they are always clean or it could flood your sump. I didnt have space for a good checkvalve so i did the holes.
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Old 10-14-2007, 06:23 PM   #24 (permalink)
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tsouth you might want to read this
Melevsreef.com | Acrylic Sumps & Refugiums
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Old 10-16-2007, 12:32 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Woo thanks guys. I finally solved my problems. On my wet dry, there is the piece that holds the filter that the water runs through before entering the live rock. Its the piece with the lid and the holes in it. Well apparently I had mine upside down with the filter on top of the lid. I flipped it, put the filter inside of it and then stuck the water hose lid on top an wala! Success! I can't believe a simple flip of a piece could solve all of my issues.
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